Do you need to switch off your phone before you can charge it??
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That’s different. I assume that phones are constructed in a way that charging has no side effect.
But: usually you don’t charge (external) batteries when they are still connected. And this is my use case.
On the other hand, as long as I don’t connect anything to the instr output jack, the PU circuit should be disconneted. Will check the diagram…
One more thing: I read about noises being emitted from the 9v battery (on both Amazon and Thomann), cause of the charging electronics.
I wonder if this affects the otherwise noiseless EMG Pickups?
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If you’re doing this yourself, rather than using a pre built battery with usb connector like the one you showed, you’ll need something to ramp up the voltage as usb only gives around 5V. I’d guess that battery you showed has a small converter built in to step up the voltage. You need slightly over 9V to charge a 9V battery.
Your question about using and charging at the same time depends on the electronics. Because in normal use you’ll have around 9V on the 9V battery, but whilst it’s being charged there will be over 9v, so more than 9v will be going into the pre amp. It all depends on whether the pre amp can take that!
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I like to use 9V batteries that are marketed for use in smoke detectors, because they are built to last a long time in devices that do not draw a lot of power. But I also don’t play that much, I have to admit.
Those Procell batteries that @qenden mentioned seem to be quite nice, and you can get them quite cheap, I just checked amazon.de, 12€ for a 10-pack, and according to the manufacturer (Duracell), they guarantee 5 years of shelf life.
I will try them the next time I need new batteries.
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My experience is that premium batteries last a lot longer. I also use them in my smoke detectors.
Afaik these are the main types you can get:
- Lithium: Longest life, very stable, leak proof.
- Alkaline: Reliable, good lifespan, stable voltage.
- Rechargeable NiMH: Lower voltage, drains faster.
- Zinc carbon: Weak performance.
Watch out with the rechargeable type, some preamps don’t like the lower voltage. Leak proof is also nice if you store them.
So yeah, I’d avoid the zinc carbon ones. YMMV 
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One of the guys on zzzzeee Zzeeeermannn forum made a great proposal to solve my problem: “And if you install a dynamo, a running wheel, and a hamster in the electrical compartment? Then you’d only have to drill across the top of the bass drum so you can fill it with seeds, and the hamster can poop out the bottom. This saves you having to go through the battery, and you don’t have to ground the hamster either.”
I measured my bass, and even if I would route it, I still need to dremel the hamster to size. But it’s a very sustainable idea
Who says that the Germans don’t have humour? I do - but sometimes I am wrong!
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It’s not humor, they want you to literally enslave an animal. Just nod.
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Most good humour is based on breaking taboos, no harm done
They gave me a serious Mayones-like solution too:
- 3x CR123a Li-Ion in series
- a Step-Up Boost LiPo Polymer Li-ion USB-C Lithium Battery Module
- A switch to power it on or off to prevent noise when not charging
- a red and yellow LED to show the charging state.
Looks like I have a new modding project….
Not sure this is really less eco-destroying than using one normal 9V cell per year
plus you’ll be using power that could go to our new AI overlords
they might not like that
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I just found out that you can get hamsters in 18650 battery form factor - zzeee Zzzermans are on to something
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See I told you they were serious
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I use hampsters to power my vape. Last forever.
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Hahaha!
Yeah, I measured my bass and I really would like to have hamsters in CR123A form factor, but they’re hard to obtain here in Europe.
So I’d rather go for Li-ion rechargeable batteries, I guess.
If our AI overlords don’t like it, let’s have a duel! I propose division by zero
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Just tell the AI that you always tell lies.
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Or: ignore my input
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Hear me out: a bass that harnesses the power of your movement to power the electronics in real time, no battery for storage. It works, but only while you’re dancing.
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That would be ideal for @sunDOG ! In fact, he could power the suburbs of London too 
I’m a sofa player, so I rarely move at all.
Oh, and my girlfriend says you should propose the other way around: apply current to me, so I move more when I’m playing my bass. WTF?
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I bought an Ernie Ball Musicman Special HH4 in January. In arrived in Feburary. I’ve played it for 1.5-2 hours every day but three since I got it. It is an 18v system, but I haven’t opened the batter compartments to see what brand or type of batteries are in it, but they haven’t run out yet. I bought a double pack of Duracells that I keep in my bass case for when these die, but they keep on keeping on.
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Ya - funny thing about about Carbon Zinc 6F22 batteries. I’ve been using these for a few years in my TRBX304. They seem to last around 400 hours. The TRBX manual indicates 6LR61, 6F22 or S-006P may be used.
I recently got a Behringer BOD400 since it’s battery operated. installed a fresh 6F22. The BOD400 exhibited odd behavior. Connecting the input the 1st time - led would illuminate - overdrive would function. The led would go dark shortly (10 seconds) after use. Switching the BOD (which should bypass the effects) would not bypass. The BOD was totally confused functionally.
Moved the 6F22 to the TRBX and the bass worked fine. Installed an expired 6LR61 out of my junk drawer in the BOD400 and the BOD400 started functioning normally.
The BOD400 now has a new 6LR61 installed and I’m going to start using 6LR61 in the bass just to be safe.
All systems operational and normal.
They finally ran out a couple of weeks ago. They lasted 14 months averaging 1.5 hours per day.
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