Really the only difference is you want to keep the strings as straight as possible coming off the nut, and most basses are designed so that’s on the inside of the machine posts.
A bit of an update: I recently did my first soldering job switching out the controls on the aforementioned Squier CV Jag. It comes with those cool ‘60s era jazz bass concentric knobs (two stacked vol/tone), but they had worn out and needed replacing.
I went to Reverb and found a guy who makes all sorts of alternative controls and bought one of his “Abomination” preloaded plates with vol/blend/tone, which is the wiring on my Epiphone Embassy and really makes better sense for me and my usage in a wide-ranging cover band.
After watching a few videos, doing a few practice runs on some extra wire just lying around, and basically just convincing myself that I could do it, I was able to pretty easily swap it out. It sounds good enough with the stock pickups that I decided not to spend the time and money on an unnecessary “upgrade,” and the best part… I didn’t have to mess with that dude at the local shop!
I’m extremely useless at anything considered “practical “
Paying for a proper set up is $ well spent.
^^ This.
Setups aren’t hard… but when in doubt go to a pro 
Here in the South Island of Aotearoa/ New Zealand we are fortunate to have Neville Claughton (Nelson) and Peter Stephen (Lyttleton) who both do superb work
It seems sometimes doing the setup yourself will even give you better results than taking it to a luthier.
I recently saw a setup video on YouTube by a guy who claimed to be a luthier (no way to verify that’s true, of course). When he got to action, he said he sets the action as low as he can without any fret buzzing. He doesn’t measure it. Now obviously that works for him, but I find it odd he’d do it that way setting up an instrument for someone else. I’d like to think that if someone requested a specific action (e.g. 4 mm), that he’d measure it. But the point is you never know when someone else does your setup, unless you’re going to watch them do it (in which case, might as well do it yourself).
I like setting up myself because I know exactly what’s going on. Right now, I have my action set at just under 4 mm. If I decide it’s too high, I know where to go. If I decide it’s too low, I know where to go. And once I know what my perfect action is, maybe it’s 3.5 mm, then I can dial that in exactly every time with every bass I play.
I think part of this is if you’re talking about a luthier (or “guitar tech” at GC or someplace similar) who does this all the time for a living, they’ve probably figured out the quickest, easiest way to do it, not necessarily the most precise. When you’re setting up your own instrument, precision/getting the exact results you want is likely more important than how long it takes you.
Just some food for thought.
I treat bass setup like my mountain bike dropper Seat post.
I was one of the early adopter and it was quite a controversial back in the day. Cyclists are some of the nuttiest people you’d know. Some redefine OCD. A couple of my riding buddies have such an issue with seat post heights and if it’s not in the precise position they can’t ride on top of that they don’t like to mark anything.
The second I installed my first Hydraulic dropper post I was determined not to ever be bother by any height. Which brings me to my bass setup. I used to follow the MusicNomad setup kit regiment on most of the basses. That said, it’s such a pain to adjust the relief on several basses in one session. I make the initial setup on each bass then if it’s in the ballpark, I’m ok. I might refine the adjustment before a big (important) gig where I know some of my favorite friends will be there.
LOL - we have the same friends!
Ya! The same guys who convert to tubeless so they can ride so 15psi and get flats every rides. That said their recommendation of the trail pumps and flat fixed kit are just spot on. 
Oh … ok … that would be me!
I ride both my gravel bike and my mountain bike tubeless … and never looked back, really!
I was reluctant for a very long time, but tried it on my gravel first. Much more comfortable ride, just as fast … and ZERO flats.
Converted my mountain bike … that was a little harder to install, but: same experience as with the gravel and much better grip.
It took me about three years to discuss this with EVERYBODY and think it through. But I am so happy I did this.
You should reconsider. Tubeless is the way to go (except in the winter maybe…).
EDIT
Ehm, 15psi? How much do they weigh? 30kg?
Oh me too all my bikes are tubeless but I actually ride them at higher psi, that was the time I took mountain seriously and started taking clinics from Lee McCormack, Joe Lawwill, Tara Llanes( before her career ending crash).
Yeah! 15psi is for hobbits
Or people under 5’4"/163 cm anyhow. Sounds right for a bunch of women pros.
This is 100% what I do. Of course its also what I want.
A bonus of doing it this way is the strings also automatically follow the radius. No radius check needed.
Well those old schooler they ride so passively they don’t load any their tires anywhere they float over everything thing, the first taught me how to ride the dirt trails. Scared the b’jesus out out of me every time I corner.
This is my home trail. I used to ride this trail 4 times a week and I rode dab-free twice and both times I paid for that private lesson. . The switchbacks are so technical it’s crazy. It’s called El Prieto it’s the sub trail of the Brown mountains trail next to NASA JPL, in Pasadena. I used to live near there.
Don’t usually see l lot of chicks riding there an ever time I see one she’d kick my ass.
This rider probably has one of the higher quality video so check it out
Nowhere near the level that @Barney is riding but it’s one of the SoCal worse kept secrets.
I have a friend who measures every setup so that every guitar he owns (about 40 or so) is the same or nearly the same. I’m typically less scientific than that. I’m more into the “feel” and of course basses differ from guitars and this is a bass forum.
I play hex core strings with a lighter touch so I usually want as little relief as possible and the action as low as possible but much like my guitars it still varies a bit from bass to bass. I’ll measure but I’m not tied to it.
Whenever I’ve had a tech/luthier set one up for me I can usually drop it a bit lower without a problem if only because of my technique. They’ll shoot for an average or base the action on how they play. I tweak it from there.
January = instruments needing work to the luthier
I have a “rule” that I can’t buy any equipment until all Basses are in optimal shape
I just did my quarterly maintenance too
I ended up getting a lot done yesterday and last night. After lot of tinkering, I feel like I’m finally getting the hang of making my basses play as well as they can. Redid set ups on the rest of mine that weren’t the way I wanted. I do think it would drive me nuts to have to get someone else to do this. Just the logistics of getting them back and forth to a tech would drive me nuts.