I am doing the course on a hofner ignition violin bass. Since I want to copy McCartney’s bass I bought rotosound rs88M black nylon strings. But I am not sure how to restring it and I am worried about messing it up. I tried looking up some articles and videos for this particular bass but I am still unsure if this is exactly the sequence:
So I need to loosen the current strings and cut them off right? Can I take them off without cutting them and instead keep them?
It is a floating bridge, I read advice to just take it in place or change the strings two by two, but all videos show putting the strings all at ones.
The rotosound strings gauges are 65, 75, 90, 115, some people show that you need to widen the slots on the bridge to fit these strings but without making the slots deeper. What will happen if fI don’t file these slots? Will the strings slide around and sound off?
I am still unsure if these are the correct strings, some people say I need shortscale strings and these medium ones will damage the tuner somehow, or break when I tune them.
Also I saw some blogs saying that removing all of the strings might cause the neck to warp because of the loss of tension.
Is there are fool proof way to do these things, am I overthinking it?
I can’t speak to that particular bass but I’ve changed strings tons of times.
Correct. Feel free to not cut the strings and save them. No issues.
Do whatever you like. It sounds like one or two at a time will be easier.
Are you sure they’re not advising to file the nut? Either way you should be fine to just install the strings. You won’t damage the bridge. I’ve never seen the nut on that bass so I don’t know how wide the slots are. It is theoretically possible if your nut is set up for a much smaller gauge that bigger strings will cause one of the sides to break. Maybe try removing the E string and just laying your new one down. If it seems like a bad fit it probably is. I would not advise you to file the nut.
Check the scale length online and ensure your strings are suitable. You don’t want silk on the bridge saddle and you don’t want the fattest part of the strings wrapped around the tuner.
Not an issue 99% of the time. You could loosen the truss rod before removing the strings if that makes you feel better. Then tighten it again afterwards as needed. You’ll likely have to adjust it anyway when installing such heavy strings. Start with a quarter turn at most. Then wait 20 minutes. Go slow and you’ll be fine. If you’re that concerned then just change one string at a time.
I hope that helps!
Edit: I looked up the strings. Rotosound says they’re medium scale and intended for the violin bass. I wasn’t able to find info on the gauge of the stock strings so I can’t help with the nut question
I’d suggest you go with D’Addario black tapewounds instead.
No need to take all the strings off, one at a time will be just fine.
Remember, bend first before cutting.
Masking tape all around the bridge so you know where it goes back to. Oil fretboard while strings are off. I don’t advise 2x2. Puts uneven strain on neck for want of tape
So I tried to just loosen up one string and try to fit the Rotosound one through the nut but it is way too big, also when I lay it next to the bass it seems to be way too long, the silk part passes the tuner peg(?)
I did a bit of searching around you tube and different forums today, and I see a lot of people recommend the medium lengths and as you say rotosound even has it on their website that these should fit a hofner, so I am puzzled.
Btw, the nut can be changed right? And if it does fit a the rotosound gauge then it can’t fit thinner ones?
Anyhow, I am really disappointed, to me it does seem like they just don’t fit this model, but rotosound advertises them like they should fit, which is very misleading.
Two things. First, it’s normal for the strings to require trimming in order to fit on the bass. So let’s say you cut off one inch, you should be able to insert what’s left into the tuner, get two wraps of silk, and when tuned everything will fit. But once wrapped and tuned, you want silk around the tuning peg, not the metal part of the string. I recommend YouTube again for a tutorial hopefully about this bass in particular.
Second, string gauge. You bought the heaviest gauge strings I’ve personally seen for a 4 string. That’s likely why the string doesn’t sit well in the nut. Yes you can have the nut replaced by a pro. It’s not something most people have done more than once though. You can sit a smaller gauge string in a deeper nut slot as long as the string doesn’t slide side to side and as long as the string height is still ok.
I think if you bought the same strings in a lighter gauge you would avoid the problem with the nut altogether. Say a 100 or 105 E string. Without seeing what you’re seeing in terms of length I’m kind of generalizing. Can you upload a picture of the headstock with the new string playing next to it? Or remove the stock e string, put the new one in the bridge, pull it up to the headstock and upload a photo of the string next to the tuning peg? Don’t force it into the nut. I think we’ve determined that e string is too wide in diameter for the stock nut.
I don’t think they have this model of string in other gauges, I guess it fits fine in the contemporary hofner not in ignition. Here is a photo I tried taking I haven’t removed the old string, so it’s not precise but hope you can see the length maybe I can take it to a luthier and he can fit them?
Thanks for the photo. That looks good actually. That’s a good length. Once you trim the excess you’ll be fine. A rule of thumb is to extend the string past two tuning pegs and take just a little extra. Cut off the excess. So in this case you’ll need to use your imagination.
As for the nut, I didn’t realize this string only comes in that gauge. So I’d say you’ve got a few options. Get a different brand of nylon wound string in a lighter gauge, install the rotosounds and cross your fingers the nut survives, and if it doesn’t or you don’t want to risk it, have a pro install a new nut. Of course if you decide to go for a lighter gauge down the road you’ll need a new nut once again. I hope that helps. Frankly I’m surprised the string is so heavy and not suitable for the nut when their site says it’s fine. Are you sure the string doesn’t fit in the nut slot? Anyway, don’t stress. There’s ways around this.
I generally leave about 4” of string past the tuning peg, snip, and then put on the peg and tighten. You are going for ~3 windings on each string.
As for the nut, you don’t buy a new nut for a bass unless it is cut too wide for a string (even that can be modified down), you can simply file it larger, or let a luthier do it, better to just buy the right strings.
Some folks make strings for Hofner basses, but I am sure you can use the AI overlords to find any make string for your bass, like the example below from Gemini (we are living in the future, use it, before it wipes us all out / keeping it busy answering these questions will delay their takeover, lol), see the useful info below…
Fitting Rotosound strings to a Hofner violin bass (like the Ignition or Contemporary series) is tricky because Hofners use small, guitar-style tuning pegs and have narrow nut slots. Most standard bass strings are too thick at the “leader” (the silk-wrapped end) to fit through the tuner holes, or too wide for the nut.
Based on technical specifications and player feedback, here are the Rotosound options that typically fit without permanent modifications:
This is generally the safest “standard” fit for a Hofner.
Gauges: 40-50-75-90.
Why it fits: The 90-gauge E string is significantly thinner than standard bass strings (which are usually 100 or 105). This allows it to sit inside the narrow nut slots of a Hofner without needing to file them wider.
Tone: Deep, warm, and vintage—perfect for the “Beatle Bass” sound.
2. Rotosound RS66S (Swing Bass 66 Roundwound - Short Scale)
If you prefer a brighter, punchier sound, these are the roundwound equivalent.
Gauges: 40-50-75-90.
Why it fits: Like the RS77S, the 90-gauge E string is slim enough for the factory nut.
Note: Because these are roundwounds, they have more “bite” and finger noise than flats.
3. Rotosound RS88S (Tru Bass 88 Black Nylon Tapewound )
These are famous for being used by Paul McCartney during the Let It Be sessions, but they are a “tight fit” risk.
The Risk: If the string is forced into a slot that is too narrow, it can crack the plastic nut. However, because the outer layer is soft nylon, many players find they “squish” into place safely over time.
Check the Silk: Ensure you buy the Short Scale versions. The silk wrapping must start before the tuning peg; if the full-thickness metal wire reaches the peg, it will likely snap when you try to wind it.
The “Two Peg” Rule: When trimming your strings, pull the string taut and cut it two tuning pegs past the one you are stringing to ensure you have enough length for 2–3 clean wraps.
So I tried removing the E string and placing the rotosound, the black part of the string goes a bit past the tuning peg, I don’t know if it is visible in the photo but the way I held it the black part ends right at the peg. Also it seems that the thicker silk part is a bit too thick for the hole of the peg it will be difficult to pass it through. As for the nut maybe they will fit if I push down hard on them enough to squish in but it feels like it will be very pinched.
I guess on their site they mean it fits only some hofner violins, I thought the contemporary series is the same in terms of dimension to the ignition. There are videos on you tube of people playing with these strings but I think they are using the contemporary bass. They really should note that on their site, as it is now it’s very misleading.
I might take it to a luthier, I don’t know if it is worth it to modify it though. I wanted these for a particular sound but will it even sound similar with all the modifications.
Honestly Hofners sound like Hofners with the appropriate strings. I prefer LaBella’s that are specifically designed for this bass, Pyramid makes the “official” strings. Never heard of anyone putting others on.
I know that McCartney used the Rotosound RS88 on his hofner on the rooftop concert and as well as Abbey Road I think, and I like the sound on the rooftop isolated tracks, I am not sure how close the other types to this sound.
I will consider maybe other ones if I am able to get a refund on these ones, at least partially. I think the other alternatives are the LaBella ones you mention, I don’t think anyone sells the Pyramid over here.Or maybe go with the shortscale rotosounds and take it to a professional to fit the nut accordingly, although I am slightly worried that they may fit too short which will be ridiculous and the cherry on top of this.
Not sure where you are, but Pyramid=Hofner brand, and are made in Europe.
I did a lot of recording of Abbey Road with LaBella flats, pro-tip - you don’t need the exact setup to sound like the orginal… Used the Rick on a few as well. No one really knows for sure what Paul used on Abbey Road BTW, even the world’s expert in the subject who literally wrote the book on Beatles gear, and, Paul - he can’t remember.
I’d cut my losses and get new strings before getting a new nut. But that’s me. I’d also echo the above comment. The bass itself and the type of string used is probably more important than the brand of string. But that’s a matter of opinion
La Bella make great strings. I’ve got a set of rounds on my 5 string. They make intonation easier with their exposed cores and the B string is solid even at 34”. And they sound great.
I see that the black part wraps around the tuner in your pick, is that OK? The instructions for the flatwounds were not to wrap the nylon part around the tuneras they would break. Also how do these sound compared to the flatwounds?
