Actually it’s a real coil but without a magnet so it captures ambiant electromagnetic signals/noises but not the vibration coming from the strings. Then the hum can be cancelled by combining it with the other coil (which is the actual single coil pickup, in this case), exactly like on a normal humbucker pickup.
It can work really good, even if it create a small but noticeable dynamic loss.
This is how I sold my preference for a used Jaguar XJS convertible over any new German Porsche.
The Jag had many flaws … and Porsche is perfect, of course. But it has no soul. It’s the perfect German engineering Nazi machine … the Jaguar is quirky and stylish
Didn’t buy any of them in the end. Again, a girlfriend story
Ok, but does an active EMG X series have not all that and more? And again: I can just toggle between single and dual coil.
I went wild yesterday, playing songs, toggling one or both pickups back&forth … listen to differences.
I am very grateful, @Al1885 , for the 35TW idea … and very happy to have chosen the 35TWX. It opened up a world of possibilities, much more than a simple tone knob.
It’s the best PU I have ever listened to.!
Of course it’s deeply personal, but I like the deep, defined/controlled tone with deep growl and nice mids (in dual coil mode) … and no noise at all.
Daddario EXL220S: Roundwound 040-060-075-095 . Got it cause on monday a guy from zzzeee Zzzerman forum visits me and wants to play my fretless mod.
La Bella 760FS-S: Flatwound .045, .065, .085, .105. Got it first, as I thought it’s great for fretless (and does not destroy my fretboard). I absolutely love the sound of flat. It sounds very “stylish”! Won’t use it on fretless anymore.
Daddario EXL160S: Roundwound 050-070-085-105. My preferred strings, until I heared flats. Now undecided.
Daddario EXL170S: Roundwound 045-065-080-100. They were stock on my HBs. Don’t care much about them.
I plan to use it like this:
Daddario EXL220S on fretless Minty P/J. Cause it’s thin & round, so perfect for fretless? Personally, I find those sounding very thin!
La Bella 760FS-S on fretted Pink’s Hot P/H. It’s my sofa bass and should have the best, stylish sound.
Daddario EXL160S on fretted Ronin. It’s my loud, dirty and versatile bass, for park & travel.
Oh yeah, a dummy coil is not mandatory at all. It’s just something that exists, works, and is actually quite simple as it’s easily switchable and can be used only when needed on a single coil instrument. It’s a bit less simple in the case of an instrument with multiple pickups in RWRP configuration, because the dummy coil has to be wired in a different direction depending on the pickup, but that’s another story.
I’ve experimented quite a lot with this technology many years ago, I made my own dummy coil by modifying a Fender pickup, and I integrated it into my Esquire at the time. It was hidden under the pickguard :
I hope I will not go as deep as you did, really. It absolutely interests me, but I have reached a point where things get crazy. And I know from experience (other hobbies, work), where that would get me … so now I have reached my limit of modding stuff, at least in terms of basses
As it is, I have almost maximum flexibility with only three cheap (but good) basses, upgraded with great parts, using some rather unconventional (aka improvised) means sometimes.
Some last changes (P/H config, fretboards) and that should be it.
After that: only learning, playing … and some more focus on some non-bass projects.
Sims are great but there is a lot of routing required a lots of ctrls and wire to stuff in. One day I’ll put them in something a bit better but they work well in this $200 SBMM
Appearantly I need that to shape the edges of my pickguard.
I need an easy way to prepare the scraper (in the picture below it’s the lower drawing), so no special tools - only things I find in the kitchen or can borrow from neigbours.
It’s 90° now (freshly cut) and needs to go to roughly 45°.
In fact I have a great American Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition belt grinder for all my psycopathic tactical and survival knives.
On zzzeee ZZZerman forum everybody advises me, NOT to use it. It was my first thought, as it’s easy to use and for knives it will create a small bevel after I used it on one side of the knife edge only.
You have a dremel. This is what I used before I got the bigger version. But you kinda need to have a dremel version of routing table. You do this with the pickguard upside down. Amazon.com
You could just use the nail filing type of sand paper or something like this Amazon.com
Ah, “burrs” … that was the word I was looking for.
So my thinking is: for knives, those burrs are unwanted. But when sharpening a knife, you always get them when you sharpen one side (and remove them when doing the other side).
So I would “sharpen” the scraper with a 90° angle, only one side … and this should create the burr I need.
But … “NEIN!” … according to zzzeee Zzerrmans. It’s not that the worksharp does not create a burr … it creates the wrong type of burr.
I have the above mentioned scraper - which is blunt.
I have the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition belt grinder (my punky funky luthier uses a belt grinder, but told me that is for experienced people only … his way of saying: “Don’t even think about it!”).
I have a dremel with a bit to make rounded edges. I’m reluctant to use it as I do not have templates for the pickguard and the control plate (I could use the old ones though).
I have a cork sanding block and sanding paper.
I have some carpet knives
I have some very sharp tactical, hunting and survival knives
I have two Japanese Katanas to perform Seppuku if I fail and have to commit suicide for my shame (need assistance though, as they are only for beheading)
So … these are my options. It’s not all bad, right?
I would at least try taking off the corner with a utility knife or exacto knife and then take a file until you like the shape on a scrap piece. If it goes fast and looks good that seems like the easiest method to do a little at a time until you’re happy with where it is with low risk of overshooting. Sort of the same as the Dremel, but everything happens slower.