It’s funny. Now that I have moved to use my mac for recording instead of my PC, any noise issues I had were gone.
My PC has a glass side which is leaky AF for EMF radiation.
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My house was built in 1903 @JustTim its an EMF radiation gong show. Every time I renovate and open up a wall I find another buried electrical connection totally against building code. Good times.
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“Alternatively buy a bass with humbuckers / split coils 
”
A Stingray Special will solve all of your problems 
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I’d leave it stock.
The smoked chrome hardware on that model is a rare finish and a large part of the aesthetic.
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Don’t have any valuable advice, @JustTim. I’ve never had any shielding issues.
Best of luck figuring it out
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Tangentially related but every single time I need to use one of these I want to upgrade by selling the instrument I am working on
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My favorite color. That is sweet.
…is a bass I will never own. 
The Aerodyne is a P/J. The J does pick up a wee bit of 60 cycle hum, but that’s independent of the shielding related buzz. My Schecter P buzzed - it was a straight split-coil - until I re-shielded that.
I’ll bite: what is that?
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It still seems very odd to me that so many instruments you have owned were not adequately shielded, or than anything you added materially changed things. Have you checked the Aerodyne internally yet? My MIJ P-bass came with way better shielding than I could add.
Even the inexpensive instruments I had made in China or Indonesia were more than adequately shielded. I find it really weird that there is much you need to do, or that it makes much difference.
Not saying you’re wrong, it just seems odd. Bummer you need to do this.
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Tune-o-matic bridge adjustment wrench. It’s how you raise or lower action on bridges like these:
Some (like that one) have nice screw heads you can use instead. Many others do not (i.e. like this):
and you have to use the silly wrench to turn the knurled knobs. It’s a PITA.
I might just switch to pliers.
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Also just a spanner wrench, great for many nuts on instruments and for setting a perfect gap under knobs.
Just leave it. Aerodyne has a matching hardware. I would not mess with that. If you want an upgrade bridge that has the same color and it’s high mass the checkout Schaller. They are great and they have the color.
I have/ had 3 aerodynes none were noisy unless the tone is way open. Then there’s a slight hiss from the single coil Jazz pickup.
What happen? No love for Rays?
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Here’s a brand new better option.
One and done!
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Yes. There wasn’t any shielding in the electronics cavity. Neither tape nor paint. I’ve already shielded that with paint.
Today or tomorrow I’ll check under the pickup cavities.
This is my curse, I’m used to it. 999 out of 1000 instruments could be perfectly shielded and grounded, I’d get the one that isn’t.
I’m sure it’s my environment as well. There’s something wacky in my house that renders most factory shielding inadequate, so I have to go through and apply an industrial strength shielding job.
That’s really the only thing that makes sense.
They’re fine instruments, they’re just not my cup of tea. You know how when you put your shoe on the wrong foot it just feels really weird? That’s how Rays have felt to me every time I’ve played one.
My Carvin amp has a built-in noise gate. It always seemed like after I plucked the initial note, or a note after a pause, the amp wouldn’t sound it until it got louder than the (or it realized the note wasn’t) noise. A delay, as it were. Does that noise gate work the same way?
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Sounds like you need to adjust the threshold and attack.
Threshold: Specifies the point at which the gate opens.
Attack: Time that it takes for the gate to open fully once the threshold is exceeded.
Noise Gates can be tricky beast to get right. I’d rather use noise reduction, rather than a noise gate.
@John_E that’s sexy man. I hope I don’t hate the so much. Lol. I’ll contact my GC rep if it’s the right price I’d probably give this a try.
No, I did that. My fight against buzz has been a two-year long endeavor. Honestly, I’d much rather just fix the shielding in the instrument to better protect against whatever’s wacky in my house than mess with a noise gate anyway.
Anyway, this thread - and my initial question - was about the worthiness of a bridge swap, not my electrical and buzz issues. 
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