From what I’ve read and been able to discern from the less-than-stellar audio quality of YouTube, I think the “brightness” levels in the tones from the low (B)/E/A strings better match those from the D/G strings, due to having the lower strings pickup closer to the bridge. So, a better tonality balance.
The only bass I have that can be configured that way is my Reverend Wattplower Mk 2, in switch position #1 (bridge and middle blade pups). I prefer that to switch position #2 (middle and neck blade pups (the classic P bass layout)). Switch position #3 (the neck humbucker) is a complete other thing on its own. This was my opportunity to add a pure reverse P to my little collection.
Tools are another GAS sink hole for €/$. I’d rather spend my money on another bass or three. It’s cheaper to pay someone else to build it for me. Or to change the oil in my car. Or…
That’s true. But making something is a completely different experience then just buying something.
And from the great video you posted it seems not to be rocket science. You need patience, experience … and the right tools & “ingredients”.
So building basses is like making pancakes: the first one or two are soso, after that they will be great
Damn damn damn, I keep waffling on selling Captain BAMF, and unlisting it, and listing it. Captain BAMF’s matte black just looks damn good too, but I always wanted a red one, and they nailed the red. It looks fantastic. But the black one is mine and I even named it. But the red one is great. But the black one has such gorgeous contrast with the fretboard. But the red one is red. But $200 hit. But new bass and store credit. Etc etc etc.
I still have my BB-300 because I simply couldn’t part with it. I have no need for it in my guitar rack. It’s just worth more to me than whatever store credit they’re willing to give. Maybe you could compromise and buy a 735 in the red, so there’s some justification for having both? The string spacing on those is really nice. I barely noticed that it was different when I first picked it up.