Yeah I didn’t realize Reverb would let me get a partial refund, because I do like it otherwise and would like to keep it, it was a good deal and came with upgraded electronics, and the fix seems pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.
But yeah, It does seem like they expect it to be mostly secured by the tension against the fretboard and the force pulling through the neck, which is probably why it didn’t outright break instead of cracking like that. The bending of the metal plate just made it lever up a bit and with only one screw along that line, it started to pivot on that point. If there were two screws per side or it was a solid block, I feel like this never would have happened in the first place.
Whoa, nice collection! Yeah I have a Steinberger Synapse, which has a similar headpiece to this one, yeah, and now this, which is a Bootlegger Ace, which I don’t think I mentioned. The Hipshot headpiece is much closer to the Steinberger one, and can accept double ball end strings or single, but that’d be another $200, and I don’t know about that haha. This one is essentially a clone of the Rockinger one with two less screws, which seems to have been ill-advised. The front is almost like a claw, all those channels are totally open so the strings don’t go over a plate or anything, I guess they’re just there to accommodate different vertical distances to the nut?
What’s interesting is that on newer Bootlegger headless guitars and basses, they don’t use this headpiece anymore. They developed their own individual string locks similar to two of yours, so it’s one screw per string, and a wider pseudo-headstock to accommodate that (and give it the ability to use a wall hanger). I don’t have that option on account of the neck shape I’ve got, and the truss rod is right there.
I think I’m gonna see if Reverb will at least do the partial refund and then go from there.
That must be some bass. You’ll need a cap similar to the travelers bass because the tip of your neck is already splintered you’ll need something else to take the tension away.
I spoke to someone at traveler and asked if there’s a possibility of buying a replacement cap and he said it’s unusual but yeah with a bit of a wait like 2 months he couldn’t quote me the price but estimated to be around $50-70.
Keep that in mind. PM me if you want to go that route I’ll share the conversation.
A friend of mine brought his new Le Fay 6-string headless to the park.
Le Fay is a small German brand, incidentally around the corner here.
In his opinion, they built some of the best basses money can buy.
I immediately had to think of @TheMaartian - not because of headless or 6-string … but because they make great (and expensive) stuff.
Apparently, they build basses to spec too. You tell them exactly what you want, they tell you why you’re wrong … and after two years you’ll have the best bass that fits your special needs.
Just saying
My friend has two Le Fays. The one in the picture is a “zero” model, which translates to: the first of it’s kind!? He said that this is an investment (and then a bird pooped on it, very funny :-))
The other one was custom made and he has spent days with the luthiers at their premises to discuss matters. He said, this was one of the best experiences of his life…
Besides that it looks like the strings are strung the wrong way (shouldn’t they go above into those gaps and then below?):
Do you need to unscrew the screws that hold the metal piece on the wood every time, so unscrew the wood screws, then screw them back in? Sounds to me that this in itself will wear out the wood every single time you change strings. So that design seems to only work for people who never change their strings.
Oh wow thank you! Well, for now I ordered the actual Rockinger headpiece with the 4 screws. I’m thinking of going with the metal band solution and just welding it to the headpiece or having the band be one piece and then putting the screws through that. It seems like whether I used the endcap or one that attaches from the top, I’m still gonna have to put screws through the repaired part (which is only a tiny crack, at least), so I may as well try the one with extra screws to spread the force out.
But yeah, I can’t return it or even get a refund from Reverb since their policies are super specific, so I’m stuck figuring it out. Apparently you need to keep the shipping box, not touch the thing, and notice within 7 days to begin with. I immediately threw out the box, didn’t notice until I went to address the fret buzz, and I was advised to take the strings/headpiece off immediately to prevent further damage, so I basically broke every rule for their buyer protection lol.
Yeah they do, it’s hard to see in the picture but those slots are totally open top to bottom, so there’s nothing to go over or under. It’s basically just a claw shape with open spaces between the claws. I think between the headpiece lifting off, the grub screws being tightened down too tight, and the nut height it looks like something is incorrect, but it’s not. There’s nowhere else for the strings to go.
I would use thin CA glue and fill the crack unless you can inject tite bond into the crack. Plug the screw holes with small dowels, drill the correct size holes, use the screws to “tap” new threads, and use thin CA again to strengthen the new holes.
It looks like it needs a shim to change the angle of the string-to-nut. I would also drill additional holes for two more screws. The forces involved should not be pulling up from the neck but laterally. There is no way the neck can stay together with the angle shown in the pictures. Ask the manufacturer for pics of the factory application. It is either poorly designed or something is missing.
Just my $.02 but I bet I am right. New holes and countersunk screws in the highlighted spots and a dremel to make the string angle start at the string hold down allen screw. I would try it before using a different part that may or may not fit without a lot of headaches. In one picture it looks like the end flange is cracked.
