Project Basses

Thanks. I already did that as posted above :slight_smile: I re-used the screws from the EMGs; the screws that came with the Fluence pickups were the problem


Unrelated to athosmr2003… I backed that dremel sanding drum out with a drill. Then got it to the right size and installed. The second one did not go so well :eyes:

Edit I’m going back to buying direct from Ibanez. The knobs I got from Ibanez in “cosmic black” to match the “black chrome” of my Stiletto Extreme fit this preamp’s shafts perfectly, and I am anal about matching knobs :eyes:

Edit 2 Sigh, of course the website is no longer valid :eyes: And the Ibanez site itself is useless. welp…

Edit 3 I figured out the part numbers for the black vs “cosmo black” - it’s tricky finding people that stock all these XD

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This is an adventure

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Apparently modding my basses is about the journey and not the destination :rofl:

(No, no it isn’t. The destination is absolutely the goal :joy: )

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Well a bit of a hiccup, the tuners order came today but unfortunately the G side tuner did not come with the nut and washer, hmmm! We’ll I put the tuner I had while waiting for the missing parts to arrive.

It sounds great. Hopefully, I can do the Pickguard around the current control plate.





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I have a noob question as an electrical engineer (who knows nothing about woodworking).
I have a matte black bass from Harley Benton that I want to repaint.

Can i just paint over the paint on it or do i have to sand etc?
@Barney or other woodworky type people?

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i don’t want to double post so i will link it, but mikro build is complete if anyone is wanting to do something similar.

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You can paint over the top of existing paint no problem.
Couple of quick points:

You could give the body a very light sand using a high grit say 150 or more. Do it by hand and just do enough to lightly roughen the surface. This will remove any oils etc in the body but also give the paint a better scratch surface to bond to. Just a super light sand you don’t want to break through the poly finish into the paint below.

Modern polyester paints like other modern paints. Nitro cellulose paint can react to non nitro.
So just make sure you painting like over like.

My bet is Harley Benton aren’t using nitro. So if you use regular paint. No problem.

The best bomb proof solution is a complete strip to wood. It depends how much time you want to invest.

Cheers

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Thanks @Barney !!!
This is an experiment on a $185 bass, so not much, haha.

When you say regular paint, you mean what?
Can O what from Home Depot say? I don’t know a lot about paint.
I am basically going for an industrial grey, concrete/weathered aluminum sorta vibe.
Good news is perfect isn’t needed for this (and I can do imperfect).

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Unless it specifically says nitro cellulose on the can you’re good. Pretty much all modern paint has moved away from anything with high VOCs.

You’re looking for acrylic enamel or oil based paint for your job.

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If you follow Brad Angove on YouTube, he does a lot of tutorials on painting and staining guitars with various techniques. He did a couple of collabs with Dan from Guns and Guitars.

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The key is thin layers and patient. Get yourself one of this and your finger will thank you later.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-finishing/spraying/vgrip-universal-spray-handle/

I’ve refinished a few bodies and first few were terrible. The last few were great as I really took my time and just do one thin layer at a time. Plus when I already knew I was going to do a few so I order this it makes all the difference. I was going to use the diy pvc but the location where I can place it, the with kids running around putting their hand prints on the freshly painted bodies.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-finishing/spraying/freehand-holder/

I’m a few more mistakes away from learning how to spot fix the boo boo, lol.

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Thanks!
Ordered the handle but not the freehand holder.
Its a glue on neck so that won’t help me much.

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I’ve got a couple that I’ll be painting a few including a StewMac les Paul kit. I wish that they offer bass kit I’ll be building a few for sure.

You know I have a Harley Benton Stratocaster deluxe whit and gold I ordered and received 2 months later. It’s never been open since the lockdown, lol.

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I bought some Purple Hill Majesty colored Unicorn Spit (lol…) and plan to head to Home Depot for some Behr “true black” water-based stain Lowe’s for Minwax True Black stain. Then I’ll practice on a piece of scrap wood to see what I can make happen. :eyes: Might as well pick up some hardwood dowels while I’m there to work on the Belarussian Wonder while I’m at it.

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This is my plan once I head to HD for some paint options.

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Seems Lowe’s has a better darker black stain that doesn’t also have poly in it. and a violet that might work, though my Unicorn Spit has already shipped. But I have many scrap pieces to play with :eyes: Also going to try and bring out the grain more and do a sort of glaze to see if I can get the black/purple thing working better. Eventually I’ll be staining my fully DIY project bass black or grey, too, though I do like the look of purple/grey… we’ll see XD

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I went by Harbor Freight today since it was across the street from Lowe’s (where I got some Minwax True Black semi-transparent stain) and bought a few things. Could not find the thumbwheel ratchets that were supposed to be in stock and the help wasn’t helpful. So I went to see if they had the small modular Bauer toolbox… well… they did… Clearly a return, broken, scraped up on the inside and outside lol…

Only one they had in stock, unfortunately, and I remember seeing a guy apologetically grab the last one a few visits ago. Guess it wasn’t for him :rofl:

Michael’s has the Unicorn Spit stuff by my god do they think highly of it. $14 for 4oz vs $16 for 8oz I paid… but I should be able to start some staining/glazing tests tomorrow and as I type this fuck I forgot wood to fix the Soviet Space Bass. Oh well.

But yeah, it loooooks liiiiiike I just brush with the grain using a metal brush (which will also take care of sanding the walnut finish off), paint/stain it black, then brush on the purple glaze and wipe it off. Sand again. Magic happens.

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would highly suggest looking into stuff from General Finishes rather than what you can find at lowes/homedepot. much higher quality and i find the colors are much better as well. may want to check their gel stains: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-wood-stains-sealers/gel-stains

not sure where you are in the world but stores like woodcraft and rockler carry them in store.

also, i have finished furniture pieces using india or sumi ink - has a different look than a stain which i personally like a lot.

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The timing is uncanny, @John_E :

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Fifteen years ago my father made a set of patio doors for my garden shed (if I were posh I would call it a garden studio). The leftover Beech has been propping up a corner of my garage ever since, and whilst under orders to clear out the accumulated rubbish, I hatched a plan to make use of it, as a bass neck blank. Of course if you have a neck blank, you just need a body and behold – a(nother) bass.
So, I taped some A3 sheets together and got busy with a pencil. My shopping list:

  1. Headless
  2. Fretless
  3. Multiscale (Ibanez make a 30”- 32” multiscale headless, and they do it for a living)
  4. Through neck with a full length fretboard, and as a result an under-bridge piezo pickup, and maybe three octaves
  5. Something like the funky body of the Strandberg Boden
  6. Hidden control knobs
  7. Contrasting wood colours


A scrap piece of 6mm plywood for a template. Two scrap pieces of Iroko glued together and routed to make the back of the body.

Quite a lot of glue, many clamps, some light routing and hey presto a neck blank.

A piece of Iroko I cut off a previous build, planed to 6mm thick to make a fretboard.

Nipped round to a friends to borrow some of his clamps, glue the neck and fretboard together.

After routing the fretboard down to the neck, and marking out the frets with a scalpel and a straight edge, I cut the fret slots with a junior hacksaw as I don’t own a proper fret saw. Sand a 12” radius on the fretboard.
The body will have an Iroko back and Beech front, with all the electronics in a cavity routed into the Iroko back. The through neck will be glued into a tapered slot in the body back, so not really a through neck or a set neck, maybe it’s a rebated neck. A recess in the back of the body so the tuners sit flush.


A rough layout of the piezo, preamp, bridge and string anchor.

After a trip to my dad’s garage (a great source of odd lumps of hard wood), I have some more pieces of Beech. After some time with a plane, square and straight edge, I have several strips but none are wide enough for a body. So, back at my clamp friends workshop.
Some planing, routing and sanding, and I have the Beech front to the body, with some rebates routed on the inside.
Frets inlayed with very thin strips of beech offcuts. Plastic side dot markers for all three octaves.

Back of the neck carved.

I really wasn’t sure how to get the strings from the bridge to the tuners, so the partially complete bass stood on the bench for a couple of months… until I was bored enough to think about it. The obvious solution was to rout a slot around the tuners to match the slot on the back, then start filing string slots/grooves. The strings went on and off a dozen times before the slots were about right (I keep a nasty set of strings for the build stage).
Five coats of Danish Oil (£5.99 for 500mL at Srewfix, and its idiot proof) makes the Beech pop, and makes the Beech fret markers contrast the darkened Iroko.

A piece of fretwire for a nut.

The fact that this geometry of bass body stands up unassisted is rather cool.

I am surprised how much I like the aesthetics of such a plain bass, no headstock, a through fretboard and hidden controls. The proof of the pudding, they say, is in the eating. After 30 minutes of playing a multiscale for the first time, I was able to play most tunes without any trouble.
It’s very lightweight; the string tension is much more even than a single-scale bass; the fretting hand falls much more naturally to the shape of the frets (with the exception of frets one and two); and there is a continuous thumb rest (I normally us the top of the fretboard rather than a pickup). I’m wondering why I haven’t made one before.
The fretboard is absolutely straight, infact just a bit too straight. To stop the E string buzzing above the sixth fret I had to put a little relief in, with the truss rod. It could just be the nasty strings though.

I’m enjoying it so much that I might finally make a five string bass but it will need proper headless barrel tuners and some stacked humbuckers. The body will need to be virtually hollow to make it balance. This one hangs on a strap at the same angle it stands up.
Any thoughts ? Would you play a bass without any bells and whistles (or frets) ?

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