Should I shoot my new bass? (Modding the Harley Benton MV-4MSB)

The end of a great adventure - all HB basses are done, yay!

It’s kind of a double post, but just to wrap it up I repeat it here.

All basses are Harley Benton MV-4MSB short scales.

Minty-Minty-Mint (active PJ fretless)

Upgrades:

1: Gotoh GB-707 tuners. Cut a aluminium pipe to make it fit.
2: Converted to fretless with veneer
3: Schaller S-Locks
4: 3M 2080 car wrap film to change color on pickguard and control plate
5: Active EMG PJX. The X model fits a short scale very well, cause of extended headroom
6: Gotoh 404SJ bridge, cause string-through option and top loading
7: Guyker string retainer, also top loading. It’s much easier to change strings.
8: threaded inserts for neck screws
9: Gotoh Battery Box 9V BB-04 (back side)
10: EMG VLPF active tone control
11: Schaller ST-Style Knobs
12: new output jack position

Strings: Daddario EXL220S, round wound (040-060-075-095)

It looked like this before:

Pink’s Hot (active P/H)

Upgrades:

1: Gotoh GB-707 tuners. Cut a aluminium pipe to make it fit.
2: Hipshot GB7 Bass Xtender
3: Schaller S-Locks
4: 3M 2080 car wrap film to change color on pickguard and control plate. You can’t see it in the pics, but without direct light it’s just a plain silvery grey. As soon as this material catches some direct light, it will sparkle in all kinds of colours…
5: Active EMG PX and 35TWX. The X model fits a short scale very well, cause of extended headroom. Yes, I had the bridge pickup cavity routed to convert the P/J to a P/H. I absolutely hate it that I could not do that myself :frowning:
6: Gotoh 404BO bridge, cause string-through option and top loading. Meanwhile, I prefer the 404SJ , cause I need to shorten the screws for the 404BO to set proper intonation. A real design flaw!
7: Guyker string retainer, also top loading. It’s much easier to change strings.
8: Threaded inserts for neck screws
9: Gotoh Battery Box 9V BB-04 (back side)
10: EMG VLPF active tone control
11: Schaller ST-Style Knobs
12: New output jack position

Strings: La Bella 760FS-S, flat wound (.045, .065, .085, .105)

It looked like this before:

How does it sound? Very sophisticated. It’s currently my favourite bass - don’t know if this is because of the flat wounds or cause of the P/H.

Ronin (active HH)

Upgrades:

1: Gotoh GB-707 tuners. Cut a aluminium pipe to make it fit.
2: Hipshot GB7 Bass Xtender
3: Schaller S-Locks
4: 3M 2080 car wrap film to change color on pickguard and control plate. In fact this is the “Barney” pickguard. I think it worked out quite nicely, despite the lack of power tools :slight_smile:
5: 2x 35TWX. The X model fits a short scale very well, cause of extended headroom. Yes, I had the both pickup cavities routed to convert the P/J to a H/H.** The 35TWX can be toggled between singe and dual coil. That makes four different configs to play. I use both in dual coil mode mostly, as this is my “in yer face” bass.
6: Gotoh 404BO bridge, cause string-through option and top loading.
7: Guyker string retainer, also top loading. It’s much easier to change strings.
8: ABM 6240 adjustable brass nut. Love it!
9: Threaded inserts for neck screws
10: Gotoh Battery Box 9V BB-04 (back side)
11: EMG VLPF active tone control
12: Schaller ST-Style Knobs
13: New output jack position

Strings: ** Daddario EXL160S** round wound (.050-070-085-105). Somehow, I’m not so happy with them … since I used flatwounds.

It looked like this before:

How does it sound? MIGHTY!!! I still prefer Pink’s Hot, cause Ronin can be a little overwhelming. But I can use it to dominate my neighbours, in case it’s not clear who can be the loudest in this house :slight_smile:

3 Likes