If you have the space yeah super useful tool. Just used it to drill the holes in the deck posts on my deck rebuild.
Really helpful to have a plumb hole to follow for the threaded rod.
If you have the space yeah super useful tool. Just used it to drill the holes in the deck posts on my deck rebuild.
Really helpful to have a plumb hole to follow for the threaded rod.
Did you check it as you go? I stole the pro tips from Max at FatBassTone, he uses alligator clips. It’s such a time saver and takes out the “finger crossed” moment.
I’d check the jack first. Then the hot lead, that’s the signal path.
Cool! Will try tomorrow. I find this very strange. It makes NO noise at all…
Ah, that’s a good one. I have them somewhere, makes things a lot easier!
I’d clip the jack then go from there. DiMarzio has different color wires. If I remember correctly their hot wire is green on my Relentless.
Does anyone have any idea about the high bridge?
On the left the newly installed Gotoh 404BO, on the right the HB China bridge.
You can’t see it properly in this picture, but the China bridge is 2-3mm higher that the Gotoh … and the Gotoh has reached it’s limit.
I am thinking about just taking the screws from the China bridge and put them into the Gotoh (if they fit).
Those things work fine. The tip I’d give you is to if possible clamp the thing you’re drilling to the scrap material you’re drilling through.
That leaves both hands free for the drill.
Yeah, I have some wooden boards from old ikea furniture where I can screw the thingy to the board in any position I want.
I have happily used that on my previous (much more simple) modding project. Those things are great!
This just seems like an excuse to send us a deck pic.
It’s nice though, I’ll admit that.
When you say you checked the wiring and soldering what do you mean? Have you checked continuity point to point on all of the connections?
I printed the wiring diagram., numbered all connections and systematically went through all soldering points and looked if they were cold or shortcutting anything.
Everything looked ok…
I’d pull out ye old multimeter and check continuity. Maybe there’s an internal broken connection in a component or something like that.
I even have a new multimeter. Just have forgotten gow to use it - last time I used one of those (still analog) is 35 (!!!) years ago.
Logically the issue must lie in the tone pot, as I hear absolutely nothing - and this is the point where p and J come together, right?
At first glance it could be the output jack, the master tone, the black wire connections, or the grey wire connections.
Thanks!
Just found the printed wiring diagram in the DP123 package. Hmmm … that looks much more simplified!?
Will rewire everything tomorrow using this diagram - can’t trust the internet anymore (eg downloaded wiring diagram from DiMarzio)…
Printed diagram:
It’s exactly the same wiring. very classic Vol/Vol/Tone, like a normal Jazz Bass or PJ.
Are you sure? To me the capitor is wired differently, for example…
And grounding is different!?