Sorry I missed the word ‘nut’ in your question. Thought you were asking how the rod is changed on the Warwick. The G&L is not a dual or a traditional single truss rod. The engineer for the G&L describes it as a passive/active rod.
The reason the nut alone can not be replaced on a dual action truss rod is because the one rod’s head is encased in the top of the other rod and the rods are parallel beyond that point. You’d have to break open the top of the encasement to release the nut (if it was a nut), rendering it useless.
This is why bass manufacturers would have been doing their customers a favor by making the whole rod replaceable. It’s a hell of a lot cheaper then a whole neck especially in high end basses.
Dual Action truss rods don’t necessarily mean two rods - they can also have a solid bar. A dual action truss rod tightens in one direction and loosens in the other, like a normal one; however there is a neutral zone in the middle with no tension and it will spin freely either way. If you keep loosening through that, it will eventually start applying pressure in the “loosening” direction, to add more neck relief.
They essentially tighten in both directions, and thus I do not see how they could have a removable nut.
My guess (just a guess) is that if you strip the nut on a dual action truss rod, you’re just hosed.
These are the most common truss rods now as well, as far as I can tell. Every bass and guitar I have owned has had one.
It’s funny; sometimes you see spectacularly bad advice from people used to single action rods (primarily I think Fender owners at this point? Not sure who else ships single action rods these days? probably some others as well…) telling someone their truss rod is broken, when in fact it’s clearly just a dual action in its neutral zone. The Dunning-Kruger in this thread is epic:
It’s response 17 before someone gives this guy the right answer, and the thing just goes on and on with terrible but authoritatively stated advice
Nah, with the Stew Mac truss rod gripper tool (tapered Allen wrench) I can adjust it fine. Was just worried that in the future I won’t be able to. Until then I’ll just keep being careful and enjoy it.
Dual action truss rods can also be comprised of a rod withIn a rod, two flat bars (no rod at all) and even a rod within a bar. There may be more. Then there is the matter of how they are held together.
It all depends on the brand and which configuration they deemed fit for a specific model. For example Warwick and Fender both use at least 2 different styles. Its not only brand specific as many companies with offshore plants use cheaper alternatives to differentiate between their premium and lower tier lines.
Even the term dual action is not a definative term. They are also called bi flex and two way truss rods. I personally have always known it as two way.
This is a good thing to remember when adjusting. The neutral zone is something that differs between manufacturers. I remember reading one guy complaining the neutral zone was 5 complete turns on his thumb bass hence he thought it was broken. Mine is not like that.
What would be interesting to know is which one ESP uses. At the same time no matter what it is , if it is dual and the hex socket is stripped (@John_E - I believe that’s what the problem was) its not going to be easy to deal with in the long run.
Glad you found a solution. Not sure if my G&L will ever be easy to work on again. The heat press helped but it is by no means perfect. Like you, I wonder what will happen as it ages. Its already 21 years old. What’s that in human years? Lol
Talkbass can be ok for finding bits of info but my real problem is how some ‘superior’ members talk down to others. Its why I never joined.
I am very glad the environment in Bassbuzz is a friendly one. You all have been helpful and accepting without creating some kind of hierarchy. There was one thread where I thought someone said something to @PamPurrs that was uncalled for but Pam did a great job replying to it. I was worried for a moment the same attitude from talkbass would leak into here. I am very happy it has not.
If you ever get to wit’s end and want to try the fretboard peel method at least the rod is only $15. Not sure I’d do it but when you’ve had enough you had enough.
I’ve made it my Eb Ab Db Gb bass to primarily play KISS songs.
It will survive for quite a while like it is in that roll.
I’ve got enough other basses to not worry too much about it, and, if it stops turning, I will just resort to playing it only certain times of the year when the truss rod is in the right place.
I even find the veracity of the information super spotty - like in the thread I posted.
It’s basically the Reddit of bass, even more than Reddit’s bass subreddits. OK for occasional google results, but not a place I want to visit often, much less trust.
Agree completely with you, Josh and Gio have really cultivated a nice place here, with lots of helpful folks who still maintain a learning mindset and don’t let ego take over.
It is a great place for classifieds.
No selling fees (other than the $30 membership fee).
Super easy transactions so far, loads of cool things to buy for good prices.
I also credit you folks @PamPurrs@howard@terb@TNKA36@Jazzbass19@joergkutter@DaveT@JerryP and the many many active others (I am sure I missed a bunch from then) that were all over the forum when I came back to it and got really active. And all the folks I have gotten to know since.
I concur! You can’t beat the classifieds there.
Lots of good info as well about almost everything Bass related.
A few prunes here and there but that’s everywhere.
Funny about the differing opinions about it. It is - and this is saying a lot - one of the last places I would trust for advice on either instruments or gear.
Classifieds I can totally understand being great though. People there will not want to trash their reputations for sure.
