Stripped nut

Hey gang,

I think I know the answer to this watching the recent Dave’s World of Fun Stuff regarding the G&L bass, but wanted to double check…

I have a fairly stripped nut on the Bello bass.
I have been using one of the Stew Mac ‘gripper’ truss rod wrenches with the tapered tip to adjust the nut but each time takes a bit more metal with it.
It works, but takes some fiddling, and worried at some point there will be no more fiddle with it, and would rather not have to buy the Stew Mac nut resuce kit, so, figure I will replace it.
ESP does not offer replacement parts (thanks ESP), good to know when considering a higher end bass from you.

My assumption is i can take off the strings, and then completely remove the nut without any worry to measure the threads, lenght and dimensions to find a replacement, then easily put it or a new one back on.

Is this accurate?
Just double checking.

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Weird. They sell replacement parts here, which I know doesn’t help you at all - it’s just odd they don’t import them to the US. I wonder if this is recent/temporary.

https://espguitars.co.jp/parts/

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From their US site…

Does ESP sell replacement parts? Where can I find parts/accessories for my ESP guitar?

ESP does not sell replacement parts at this time. All current ESP instruments use industry standard metric guitar parts, and comparable after market parts can be purchased from most any parts suppliers or retailers. Here are a few places to buy parts:

  1. www.stewmac.com
  2. www.wdmusic.com
  3. www.allparts.com

So maybe it is a temporary thing.

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Still sucks - sorry to hear it. Hopefully will be easy to figure out.

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I’d imagine you should be able to pull the old nut off as you describe and then find a matching aftermarket replacement. Probably worth doing before it strips out worse. I too enjoy Daves World of Fun Stuff.

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So, got a response from ESP on this, glad I didn’t start unscrewing.

Based on below, this will be the last ESP bass I ever buy….

Hello John,

Thank you for contacting ESP / Takamine Guitars Customer Service. We appreciate you reaching out to us.

Unfortunately, the truss rod nut is not replaceable on this truss rod and a new truss rod would be needed in this situation.

Here is a truss rod that can be used with the proper modifications: Hot Rod Low-profile 2-Way Truss Rod - StewMac (Item # 2653)

We recommend taking this instrument to a preferred tech or shop for assistance with this type of repair.

If you have any further questions or concerns, please feel free to contact us.

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Hey @John_E,

Ya that was my G&L. As long as the nut is replaceable (some basses are, some are not i.e. G&L basses made after 2006 was not) just make sure you use the right hex key not to strip it and slowly unscrew it (righty tighty lefty loosey) not to mar the threads.

I at first got a replacement nut from G&L which was a bit of a waste because the official Fender nut was identically to the G&L (bullet style 1/8 hex with 10/32 thread) and half the price from Amazon. Amazon has a few good quality nuts which may match yours. They go for $16 CDN (or $1 USD…jk)

Sorry just saw your last post. Check what it’ll cost for a new neck. Repairs, especially truss rod replacements, are expensive. A new neck might cost the same or less and would be much less of a hassle.

Or even better sell it off for parts.

I am starting to feel the same way with G&L. I contacted them for the nut, they asked for the serial, I sent it and I had to send a second email because they never replied. Then they send me a link to a truss nut replacement but it was not the same that was in my bass. Then I asked them for pricing on a new neck. After they quoted me I said I would be interested into doing so. Once again they never got back.

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Nah. No way am I investing that much. I will carefully adjust the nut with the Stew Mac tool and that’s that. Not pleased. Wish I knew this before I replaced the pickups with the active set.

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I don’t blame you. My problem is even though Dave fixed it up, it’s not working as smooth as a $2000 bass should and due to the nature of the whole situation (being hoodwinked by the seller) I just am not very happy playing it. But that’s just me.

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That blows!

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Sorry for the bad news. I have an LTD bass in my current arsenal that I’m now looking somewhat sideways at. I wonder what makes the truss nut not replaceable. Maybe the access hole isn’t large enough for the nut to come out or did they use a captive nut system? Either way, seems like a poor design choice. StewMac tool to the rescue.

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captive nut, part of the rod.
Seriously dumb design.

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Maybe its a function of a two way truss rod. I’m not super familiar with those.

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Yeah it might just be a characteristic of dual-action truss rods? They need to tighten in both directions. I wouldn’t necessarily slam ESP for this, it might be common.

If so, it’s worth it - dual action rods are a lot better than the old style.

But definitely inconvenient in this case.

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So if that’s the case, using a far superior alloy for the nut would be beneficial to help prevent stripping.

In fairness the fault goes to the previous owner who stripped it and me for not noticing when I bought it.

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I am guessing its cheaper and in the end they can sell more instruments if they are not easily repaired.

My old Warwick has a replaceable truss rod and its 2 way. Everything after '96 non-replaceable. The G&L truss nut pre 2006 was replaceable. Not anymore. The list goes on.

One reason I have been enjoying Fenders so much is because they are so “modular”, if that’s the right word. You can buy pretty much any part OEM (even off Amazon) or 3rd party, high quality or cheap and mod the heck out of it without spending a great deal of money. That also gives you the opportunity to do custom work without the worry of throwing money away. One example is I sanded down the neck for a satin finish and rounder fretboard edges. If it didn’t work, no worries, you can get a new neck for less the $250.

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How do you remove the truss rod nut on a double action? Is there an external nut or something? Surely it doesn’t just unscrew like on a single action? If so, how does it tighten in the other direction once you are through the “neutral zone”?

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That’s what happened to me. The whole bass was in great condition but I didn’t catch the nicks in the truss rod hole. Lo and behold the neck had problems. At least I got some money back from him.

Hope you can find a solution. Maybe tear it down and sell the parts?

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I have not had to do it yet (and hopefully never) but there is a tool to draw it back through the truss nut access hole and then with some lubricant you slide the new one in. I believe you lock it into place with the same extraction tool. There is a Warwick video out there on how to do it with all removable truss rods before '96. Again this is a vague description as I have done it myself.

Update:

Here it is.

Warwick trussrod relacment.

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But wait, that’s replacing the whole rod, not the nut. They never unscrew the nut there, they just pull the whole thing out.

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