Yamaha BB734a active/passive switch broken

So, I have had the misfortune of breaking off the paddle of my Yamaha BB734a passive-active switch. I have looked at the Yamaha website and found the official Yamaha part number for the active/passive mini-toggle switch on the BB734A bass is ZF812500. They want $25 for the switch, and $19.95 to ship it! That is absurd, especially considering I’ll be replacing the broken one with the same weak over-long switch – which is likely to get broken again due to its feeble design.

(Search the web, and this is a common issue with Yamaha BB734 and BB735s.

I searched Amazon and found (10) such switches for under $9 with free Prime shipping. However, I am leery of using cheap Chinese junk in my $900 bass, and I only want to perform this repair once.

Does anyone have any suggestions or thoughts on where to get something like a high-quality Switchcraft DPDT on/on mini-style switch that isn’t going to sodomize me on shipping or require a $25 minimum purchase? Every place I’ve looked at defaults to UPS which has a minimum cost of almost $20 on a $8-10 switch. (BS on that!) :face_with_symbols_on_mouth:

Nothing local but more Chinese stuff.

I’m about ready to give up. Any guess on the quality of the Chinese switches listed above?

Thank you.

Some of the chinese parts are fine. I would just get them and be done with it. You won’t break another one unless you try.

silly question but have you just checked amazon for a dpdt switch? they are super common.

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The blue switches above are from Amazon.

I resolved the problem by going to “Love My Switches” and ordering these:

Taiway DPDT On On Switch - Solder Lug - Short Shaft - Love My Switches

Now comes the fun of soldering this thing in without melting the switch case…

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Don’t know your skill level. But I learned by watching Phil and it’s worked out well for me.

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You would be hard pressed to melt the case. Use a heat sink if you are worried.

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I think you’ll be fine, the switch casing is pretty resilient. My soldering skills are pretty basic, and even my ham-fisted efforts didn’t manage to knacker the switch case when re-wiring my Edwards :laughing: The hardest thing I found was accessing the middle connectors on the switch - there’s not a huge amount of room to get a soldering iron in there.

Phil

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