Well, I’ll be changing strings for the first time ever and I’d appreciate any extra advice, tips, suggestions, etc.
I have already done a search on the Forum and watched over a dozen different YouTube how-to videos. I picked up on some similarities along with some differences on how to change bass strings.
This seems like a pretty straight forward process, but I want to make sure that my first experience as a string changing virgin is a good one.
I will have the following:
Squier Classic Vibe ‘60s Fretless Jazz Bass (My B2B graduation present to myself is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I saw that it comes with round wounds and I want to start with and stay with flat wounds on this bass. I have round wounds on my fretted MIM Fender Player Jazz Bass. I plan to save the new round wounds I take off so that I’ll have a spare set of strings.)
D’Addario XL Chromes ECB81 Flat Wound strings. (I got to try these on another fretless bass and they felt silky smooth.)
D’Addario Bass Pro-Winder that includes a cutter.
D’Addario Headstand
What I don’t have is any previous experience changing strings. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
If i could add something? When i change strings, i always put a piece of painters tape behind the bridge, and always loosen and then cut the strings with a good side-cutter. This allows a clean extraction without yanking the coiled string from the tuner through the bridge. The tape is so you don’t put a nasty scratch on your rig. The downside of this is you ruin the strings, so If saving them is on your mind, maybe don’t cut and do a nice controlled removal.
The big caveat here is what you’re going to/from and you may need to do a set up for correct intonation etc. many ways to check and do that. Check Roger Sadowski’s site for a fool proof way if you like.
Once you change em, if intonation etc seems ok then don’t fret it (well, actually do fret it, in the good way).
Try to hold the string out of the nut for as long as you can while doing the initial tightening. The strings can act like a file and chew straight through cheap plastic nuts. Don’t do any fancy stuff through the tuners. The fender style safety tuners where the string goes down in the center hole works just fine as it was designed. If you have a 5 string bass, the B is going to be a little floppy. Don’t overtune it to the next octave and snap it
@ John_E
This will be a brand new bass, so we’ll see if it ships well set up or if it will need a set up.
My Fender Player was pretty well set up new. (I had it checked a bit later there wasn’t anything major that needed to be done in terms of setup.)
I’m not sure about a new Squier. I’ll probably get this checked out reasonably soon. (The closest shop is a three-hour round trip drive.)
This is great, but I think what @John_E meant was to give you a heads up that when you change to a different type of strings (different materials, gauges, tension, …), then a set up will most likely be required again (once the new strings are on the bass)
Wind the from the top of the tuning post down and try to get the angle at the bottom fairly deep. That insures you have proper break angle on an FSO (Fender Shaped Object). Then, you have no tuning or intonation problems.
then you got lucky, very lucky.
I highly reco everyone learn how to set up their own bass.
Paying anyone to do it for them is a waste of $, it is really really really easy.
Don’t count on your Squier being anywhere close to set up out of the box.
@StevFargan, I know that Josh strongly recommends that beginners should take first basses to a luthier or tech for a setup. That’s what I did at first.
The most important reason for having a pro set up a bass the first time is that beginners will almost always not have a clue what’s going on with their weird new instruments.
But, given your situation of not having a luthier/tech near you, it will benefit you sooner than later to get familiar with setting up your own basses.
There are loads of good videos about this from Erlewine, Sadowsky, and other pros.
MusicNomad sells kits that contain their own gauges and tools that make doing setups super-easy. These kits might seem pricey (about 50 bucks) at first glance, but having/using one will save you lots of time and money.
Some might argue that such a kit is too expensive or unnecessary; that regular tools and rulers would do the job just as well.
Fair enough. That might be true for them, but, personally, I found that MusicNomad’s well-designed gauges, tools, and specific, high-quality how-to videos provide a stress-free, foolproof process that makes doing setups very simple, even for a beginner.
@autumnsdad1990 Ha! Funny you should mention a capo - I just put a capo on my Christmas list, knowing I’d have very little use for it, but still. . . this particular one is so purty: Shubb C1P Capo Royale - Paua Pearl. hypnotizing iridescence!
If I don’t get it as a gift, no harm done. But if I get it, I figure I can have it around for if/when I do need it.
And John is right; learning to adjust your bass will pay dividends in the future. In places with actual seasons, most instruments benefit from periodic adjustment over time. And as he mentioned, whenever you change string tension by switching string types it’s likely to need one. Don’t think of setups as a one-and-done thing.
Adjusting your bass is easy and fun and will lead to an improved understanding of the instrument. I know Josh recommends having a pro do it first and I know why he recommends that, but this is actually a place I disagree with him. I think it should be one of the first things you learn to do once you have some basic playing down. It’s not hard and is a skill worth having, and will result in an instrument that is much more pleasant to play.
hypnotizing iridescence!