BassBuzz Setup Video, Focus Group Please!

I was going to say, you may be forced to split the entire process into multiple videos anyway. I think if you try to cover all the details, it’s going to be a very long video.

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Yup that’s the goal, string should be touching the second fret. And you should probably mention that each string should be checked since that might not be obvious to a beginner.

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The only thing I’d add is a pick (plectrum) makes a great capo if you weave it over E-under-A-over D string-so no need to buy a capo necessarily.

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I was thinking the same thing and a separate video on string changing could also talk about cleaning and reference the set up video, where needed, for things like checking the intonation. :+1: :+1: :+1:

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Great idea great info hope to see this when it comes out, Maybe one area that is important to a first timer I went through with much anxiety was adjusting my truss rod clockwise? or counter clockwise? to make the neck go in the direction I needed. You’re video was clear on bridge saddles and intonation direction but not on the neck truss rod. Unless some bass guitars are different mine was MIA Fender. Thanks for putting this out there.

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Where I live the humidity is up and down so knowing how to adjust the truss rod is very important to me.
I usually have to do this 3-4 times a year, as the seasons change, or if I change string gauges

There’s no big deal adjusting the truss rod and there is no need to be concerned about breaking the truss rod as long as you make the adjustments in small increments, in other words 1/8 to 1/4 turn MAXIMUM.

I laughed when you mentioned details on which way to turn the allen wrench or truss rod nut, if that is what you have. I have been doing this since about 1972 and I still need to confirm which way to turn it :upside_down_face: :slightly_smiling_face:

If the string action height is too high for your liking ie. you want to lower the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret, tighten the truss rod nut by turning it clockwise. This flattens out the neck.

If the string action height is too low loosen the truss rod nut by turning it counter-clockwise. This introduces back-bow to the neck.

I always tune the instrument before and after the adjustment, in the playing position, and the wait 15 minutes or so before checking the new setting distance. This is to let the neck settle in a bit. I also check a day or so later to see if it has shifted any, or when I change my strings.

The main thing is to take your time and not crank that truss rod nut any more than 1/4 turn. I go in 1/8 turn increments but that is just me staying on the cautious side of things. It does not take much to change the string action above the frets.

As far as measuring the height of the string above the fret I just use a business card.

Some may think I’m a bit anal about adjusting the string action the way I do and all I can say is it works for me and I have no action or string buzz issues on any of my stringed instruments. YMMV:slightly_smiling_face:

Until @JoshFossgreen puts out his final setup video, here is a video that is recommended by may people that may be of interest to you:

Good Luck :+1: :+1: :+1:

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That’s fine, but can become a real problem with set neck instruments where the fretboard can run out .020-.040
Maybe I’m too used to working on junk though…

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@JoshFossgreen, not sure if this was mentioned already, but perhaps you could include a few words on what to look out for especially when trying to set up a fretless bass!?! Most of the “usual” tricks and approaches don’t readily apply to a fretless.

Thanks!

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As a fretless owner who attempted to perform a setup and ultimately took it in to a pro - I second this.

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Hmmm,
I set mine up just like any other bass and it was fine.

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Was going to speculate this was the case. Neck relief is neck relief, doesn’t matter if you’re measuring from a fret top or the fretboard on a fretless.

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i am literally terrified of doing any work at all on my bass. i have nightmares about turning truss rods (craaaacccckkkk). i know it’s silly and easy to do. but i would rather just pay a small amount and have somebody else do it. much easier on my anxiety.

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I will do it for free for you but shipping might be ruinous for you :slight_smile:

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:grin:

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I’m sure a degree of inexperience on my part played into this. Also, the neck did need a light sanding and the nut was broken so it was above normal setup requirements.

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@JoshFossgreen mentioned earlier in the thread that he used the Music Nomad video as one of the references. It’s what taught me how to setup. Everything I needed is in that video.

In the video Geoff Luttrell adjusts the truss rod at the nut with an allen wrench. What he does in the video but doesn’t talk about it specifically is move the string next to the wrench out of the nut slot. When I first did an adjustment I didn’t do this and ended up putting pressure on the A string and chipping a small piece out of the nut. So now I move the string out of the way to allow the hex tool to rotate freely.

If I’m adjusting the truss rod on a bass that’s already been set up. I’ll also drop the action on all the strings at the bridge until they start buzzing then adjust back up. Once you’ve done it a few times I don’t measure I just lower until they buzz. Raise until they stop buzzing too much and done. Takes a few minutes.

I put a piece of tape on both the wrenches and write on it which bass it’s for. Saves me going through all the wrenches in my toolbox to find the correct one.

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I do the “drop 'em till they buzz, then raise slightly until they stop buzzing” too. Labeling the wrenches and moving the A and/or D strings out of the way is a good idea!

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You can also but a couple T-bar handled Allen keys and ignore string moving (if your’re lazy)

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I own one of those as well, but I found it doesn’t work that well on Fender style headstocks. Being fairly straight, the headstock itself prevents the T-bar handle from turning.

Also, for my MIM P-bass, I need an imperial sized hex key, and I was only able to get an L-shaped one over here :roll_eyes:

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If you don’t have time to move the A string then you’ve got some serious time management issues I fear. I tried a straight key but ran into the same problem as @Mike_NL so I use a regular one and lift out the string. But i don’t have children so have almost unlimited spare time :slight_smile:

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