Pretty sure this is how close to 100% of production basses are made these days, it’s just Warwick makes videos of their custom builds, where they also rough it out with a CNC router, which is why I used them as an example. Awesome vids you get when you order one.
The difference would be the extensive finishing work done on the 'wicks (and Fenders and so on). That will happening to varying levels for production line basses.
I mean, CNC routers aren’t that expensive. I was actually surprised. More than most individuals would spend but not bad at all for a pro shop or factory. And the small DIY ones are actually easily affordable for individuals.
you can’t paint over an oiled surface or anything fat : imagine painting over butter, it’s obvious that it won’t work that’s why we always use a degreaser like acetone prior to painting
@juli0r, for some reason, the DEAN wings logo is what I see there, but not the actual Dean wings, something similar of your creation, but it would need to be drawn or painted on, after the paint base, before the clear coat.
Or you can mask it and paint over it, remove the mask, and then fill in by hand, paint pen or small paint brush, with just a small amount if hand painting to fill it in.
That’s just what I see fitting there, but I am sure you will come up with something awesome
Dave it’s not for cutting frets although you would be easily mistaken by the name, it’s for cutting out the head stock or jigsaw pieces. A jigsaw is no good for cutting jigsaw pieces, to large blades.
I use a Gentleman’s saw for frets. Although the last time I used a pull saw which can be used in a mitre box type jig. @DaveT
Jamie
Perfect!
No problem as this has cleared it up a bit more. I kind of made a decision but still was hesistant.
Anyway - the shaping will still take a while. I just wanted to know what to do once I’m there and what the correct order would be! So kind of a good thing you didn’t read back
Cool! That’s actually one hand tool that I already do own although I may have worded my approach wrongly. I think what I want to do goes into sculpting and so far I think I can work with the Dremel for that. The idea is to sculpt 3-D wings instead of thinking of the headstock as 2D canvas.
Yeah I will be although my acryl colors are water based and probably less prone to smearing than oil based colors I would assume!?
Tru-Oil is awesome stuff but the trick is many ultra-thin coats. Don’t be impatient and try to get it done in 2 thick coats… 20 thin coats will look far better.
Moving along nicely there
I was leaving the coats of oil / finish for around a week in between coats as advised by the seller of the kits here . Well worth it imho and very very thin coats . Patience is your friend here and it’s very hard to keep enthusiasm under control.
I’m really enjoying this build and it’s stoking the build fire in my belly again.
Sorry for the confusion @juli0r, I was picturing, like I said the DEAN, therefore, looking at mine, it’s a black headstock, with white wings.
Therefore, if you were doing white on black, I would suggest finishing the headstock with black paint, and after the final black coat, you paint the white wings, then put a clear finish over it.
So in your case, the “Black paint” becomes “natural oil finish wood”. And the “white wings” becomes “black bat wings” or cape or whichever the paint emblem will be.
So, completely finish the headstock.
Paint the emblem
Then if you plan to, add a clear protection coat over the top of the headstock.
Anyway, I think this was already cleared up, just wanted to apologize for any confusion.
that’s why we always use a degreaser like acetone prior to painting
