The short answer is yes, and adjusting intonation fixes that by moving the midpoint of the string.
There is a much longer answer too but that is the gist of it.
4 Likes
@NipperDog, with the tuning pegs you are adjusting the overall string intonation.
But that does not mean that the fretted notes are in ‘the right place’ on the string length.
You can have a string in tune but not be the right length.
The adjustment for this on a bass is the saddles.
Once you fret a note and the string gets shorter, that saddle position is more and more important, and puts off your intonation if not correct.
So the tuning pegs are good for the overall string, and as you fret the string you start to see the effect of the overall string lenght being, well, wrong.
When you adjust intonation, it is a cyclical process.
- tune open string.
- check intonation at 12th fret.
- adjust saddle (in for sharper, out for flatter)
NOTE: once you do step 3 you are now out of tune on the open string. - go back to #1 and repeat until step 1 and 2 are BOTH in tune.
Again, there is some back and forth there until you find the correct length of the string.
Then when you tune with the pegs, your know your string length is also correct.
You don’t know this before hand.
Can also think about it like this… You can tune an open string to proper tuning over quite a bit of varying length. Which length is right? The one where the intonation at all fret postions is correct. How do we set that? At the 12th fret is a good a place as any, its about half way.
3 Likes
Boy, I have so much to learn. 
3 Likes
I’m not exactly saying that half is in tune and the other half isn’t.
The tone of the string is determined by its length (and tension, but we’re working with length here). The length of an open (unfretted) string is from the saddle to the nut. The length of a fretted string is from the saddle to the fret, so if you’re fretting at the 12th fret, the length of the string is from the saddle to the 12th fret.
You tune the open string to a specific tone. If the length of the string when fretted at the 12th fret isn’t exactly half of the length of the open string, then it won’t be exactly an octave higher, and will be either sharp or flat when fretted at the 12th fret, even though it’s tuned properly when unfretted. You adjust this by shortening or lengthening the total string length, then retuning the open string. Now, if the 12th fret divides the string exactly in half, the tone at the 12th fret and the tone of the open string will be correct (an octave apart). That’s intonation.
Hope that helps…
2 Likes
Welcome to the club. 
3 Likes
Wow, I’m gonna have to read that over a few times to be able to absorb it, but I appreciate the effort. 
3 Likes
Wait till you discover the learning never stops and don’t forget there are people here giving you advice that have been making music in one way shape or form for over 30 years.
Not being condescending here, but are you aware that the 12th fret is the octave of the open string. Or put another way the 12th fret of the E string IS THE SAME NOTE as the open string but ONE OCTAVE HIGHER. That is why intonation is checked at the 12th fret.
In other words a Tuned E string should also show as an E on the tuner at the 12th fret, or the 24th fret, if you have a Bass that has 24 frets.
WHATEVER YOU DO DO NOT GIVE UP. IT ALL TAKES TIME AND PRACTICE BUT I HONESTLY BELIEVE THAT ANYBODY CAN LEARN, AND ENJOY, THE MUSICAL JOURNEY IF THEY WANT TO.
4 Likes
Hey @howard I have a question for you, or anyone else for that matter:
I realize this is irrelevant to most Bass players but if you have a 24 fret Bass, like my TRBX504, would I be better to set the intonation there ie. the second octave, instead of the 12th fret?
I don’t think so. Many people recommend also checking it at the 5th and 17th in addition to the 12th but generally I think just the 12th is enough.
3 Likes
yep, me too, and the app even works okay without the cable. Looking forward to the cable.
For $20 or so you end up with a Peterson tuner, except one you always have in your pocket, and with a far, far nicer display. Win
It’s probably slightly less accurate. I’m also certain that this will be indistinguishable in real life.
2 Likes
Good enough for me.
I am rarely much past the 12th fret anyways.
Thank you.
1 Like
Yes, I remember Josh covering that point in one of the first lessons but thanks for the refresher.
1 Like
It is not as much to learn as you think.
I skimmed most of the answers and am going to try to not repeat much information.
The one thing I did not really see stressed within most of the posts (probably because once you get this down, it is a given, and becomes common knowledge) is the importance of starting EVERY PROCESS IN TUNE, AND THE PROPER POSITION THE BASS SHOULD BE IN WHEN YOU DO ALL THE PROCEDURES.
You need to tune the bass, every string before doing anything. - example written like a macro.
1 - TUNE
2 - Use Capo on 1st fret, and finger on the last fret, or where the fret where the body and neck meet, I have done both, it doesn’t really make much difference to my results.
3 - Check the gap at the 8th fret (some use 12th fret, some 7th fret, and some basses specify which fret to check) at first by eye, and touch. Does it move down, or is it flat on the fret already. You can use feeler gages, or like @howard had stated, I also do it mostly by feel, and just kind of know where I want it by now.
4 - If gap is > or = to X - tighten truss rod.- go to 5
- if Gap is < then or = to Y - Loosen truss - go to 5
- If gap is < or = to X AND > or = to Y, Go To step 7
5 - TUNE all strings.
6 - go to step 2 (and do 2, 3 and 4)
7 - Tune All Strings
8 - Check strings for fret buzz - if fret buzz = zero - go to 12
9 - raise strings with fret buzz until they no longer buzz
10 - TUNE ALL STRINGS
11 - go to 8
12 - lower strings that are higher then desired, until you start getting fret buzz anywhere on the neck, then back off a little
13 - Tune ALL strings
14 - if fret buzz present - go to 8
- of fret buss = zero go to 15
15 - tune all strings
16 - check intonation
Etc…Etc…Etc…
Personal touches are allowed, you are trying to make the bass play to your liking and comfort level, THE point here is TUNE ALL STRINGS between every and any adjustment.
ALSO, because you are making the bass PLAY and FEEL the way YOU LIKE IT, is exactly why you want to do your OWN set ups. AND, not only do you need the instrument in tune before making any adjustments and measurements and tweaks to your liking, the instrument is also supposed to be IN PLAYING POSITION. This can be on its side if you have a way to hold it, OR, like I do, I put the strap around my neck and do everything while the bass is in PLAYING POSITION.
It is never a BAD idea to have your set up checked. You can find a music shop, or pawn shop that deals with alot of instruments (one of my local pawn shops is called HB Pawn and GUITAR, and has as many, if not more guitars then the local Guitar Center has, even alot of new stock) often have a guy that does set up / repair to get the instruments into selling condition to maximize profit. The guy at my pawn shop is great, he never charges me for advice or small fixes, although I insist on giving him at least a $10 if he does anything to it, and if you can find somebody like this, once you do your set up, take it in to them and have them look it over. Don’t expect them to make any adjustments, (although they might for free), but just see if they will play it and see if they can offer any advice, or see if you missed anything.
I was happy after adjusting a few of my basses, and feeling like I did a really good job, to have him confirm that I did a GREAT job, and put the action even lower then he would have done it had he done the set up.
I have also had a bass PLEKed (look up PLEK machines or PLEK Guitar) it is a machine fret, fretboard, nut, bridge adn pick up leveling and adjustment, including a professional set up.
I got it home and lowered each string at least a full turn, and was then satisfied with the fret action.
They set it to recommended standards, because they are not YOU, and don’t know if you like lower or higher action. Lighter touches, benefit from lower action (everything is better lower IMO) and a little higher or standard string action height is ok if you play very heavy, hard and fast.
But I am almost 100% certain that if I ever take a bass in for a set up, that I will still end up adjusting it when I get home and start playing.
HTH and does not further complicate anything.
Try not to overthink it. It feels like A LOT, and it feels like you might mess something up, but in reality, as long as you are not completely careless with tools, and don’t use power tools, or really crank on anything (set screw can be striped so the wrench won’t work, screws for pick guard, pick up, bridge, etc… can be overtightened and stripped, especially in softer wood, and truss rod can be broken, but ONLY if you really CRANK on it, or if it was already ready to break) then it is next to impossible to do anything to your bass that can’t be fixed rather easily.
If you just get completely lost in the set up, and can’t figure it out with video’s, you can ask us here, and if we still can’t get it right, then you can still take it in for a set up at a good music shop, and as long as it is a good luthier or set up tech, and they don’t try to sell you on a bunch of BS, you are only going to be out what a set up normally cost (around $40 here), and nothing is damaged or wrong, so try to not overthink the whole thing. Once you do it a few times, it will be so natural you almost don’t have to think about it when doing it.
Plus, you will start to KNOW when you need to do it based on the feel and sound of your bass.
3 Likes
I take it you are talking about the cable to connect the phone to the guitar - Yes?
If so where did you order the cable from and where are you plugging it in to your phone?
I have an Android phone and the only place to plug it in would be the headphone jack.
One other thing I don’t think I saw mentioned was that if you are doing something that puts more tension on the strings then loosen them a bit first.
This can happen a bit for truss rod adjustments but probably matters more for adjusting the bridge saddles higher.
Don’t panic if you don’t do it though, especially for very minor changes. Just generally don’t want to overstress the instrument if you can help it.
3 Likes
I ordered the cable from Sweetwater.
And plugs into your phone’s headphone Jack.
You can’t use a simple 1/4” to 1/8” TS adaptor as the phone end needs a TRRS make end which this cable has.
It works really really well
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/iCable--peterson-adapter-cable
1 Like
Thank you.
1 Like
So much helpful information here, thank you.
2 Likes
Because the fretboard is subject to warpage, I find myself wondering why it’s not made of a some kind synthetic material that holds its shape.
1 Like
There are graphite ones…$$$$
You could go carbon fiber too I guess, but even more $$$$$
And stronger generally means more brittle with synthetics, which could be a bad thing out in the real bass playing world vs. our homes/garages.
1 Like