I was thinking of more of a composite plastic material but what do I know. 
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Just by talking to all of you, I was able to get my strings feeling so much better.
Thank You.
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Fantastic!!!
I knew you could do it.
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Stratus basses, and other high end ones with carbon fiber necks are supposed to be A JOY TO PLAY, and feel and sound amazing (I can’t attest to the Feel, but what I have heard is amazing)
There are basses with composite necks. Stratus, they cost many thousands of dollars. There are others that have composite necks, but are also very expensive, I don’t know of a budget, or even a mid range bass that has a composite neck (but there may be some)
It is not really that the fretboard is subject to “warpage” (although it is, as is any wood, but when cured properly, and cared for properly, warpage can be avoided), It is more that the string tension on the neck can change with time, temperature, weather, atmospheric pressure, new strings, old strings, and just playing the bass are all reasons included, but not limited too.
The truss rod helps to adjust it and make sure the string tension is not pulling it too flat, or putting too much bow into it (for the most part, in layman’s terms).
Wood, like anything else changes size (and can change shape) with different temperatures. Most ALL inspection of aero, auto, medical & dental precision machined parts is done in a controlled thermally stable environment with a 2 degree temp range and certain humidity limits.
BUT
there can be certain parts for certain applications that need to be inspected at temperatures they are going to be subjected to, meaning heated up, or even frozen. These are examples of how ambient temperature and environment can change objects.
The changes are not much, but relatively to the precision design of the part or assembly, those tiny amounts are as big as miles. Same with the bass, , You can’t often SEE the change, this is why we are checking it quite often, because we usually start to feel and hear the change, ever so slight, but a 1/4 turn on a 4-40 set screw in a bridge saddle, can make a world of difference, and that 1/4 turn amounts to only .00625"
If you take a standard recommended string height setting of 1.75mm** (.069") or lower, and you raise it .0069" to .07525", it doesn’t seem like much, but it can make it harder to fret the string.
Likewise, if it is lowered .00625, to .06275", that can certainly be low enough to cause fret buzz in some or all frets.
Don’t take this the wrong way, you DO NOT NEED TO BE THAT EXACT. I don’t use any precision tools, and will sometimes use a business card to check the string gap for setting the truss rod,
AND
I don’t ever measure the string height, I just keep going down until it is too much, and back off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
I am only showing how the neck is not really WARPING, it has just gone out of adjustment, and it is really pretty simple, with 3 tools to fix in about 5 min per string, depending on how many strings you need to do. Often I am only adjusting one string, because for some reason, it starts to BUZZ or RATTLE a little, most likely from wear and tear of playing alot.
3 tools
Capo (to assist with checking the neck for truss rod adjustment, not manditory)
4mm Hex wrench for the truss rod (or a straight pin for Stingray style adjustments)
and
a .05 or 1.2mm (I believe, it can differ from bass to bass) hex wrench to adjust the saddles for setting action.
Again, Hope this is helpful and not making it more intimidating or confusing.
**Each string is actually supposed to be set a little different. The E (bigger) string is to be set a little higher then the
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It truly is and thanks for taking the time.
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I am amazed by how good it is with the cable.
Even without the cable it’s a decent tuner. With the cable you end up with a Peterson strobe tuner, except with a much nicer display, and only $30 or so total. Plus the option to buy additional add on signal analysis options.
I’d almost call this a must-buy. A way better option than any clip-on and most other tuners, if you have a capable phone.
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$30 would be nice but that’s not going to happen in Canada 
I talked to Sweetwater today and the shipping and custom’s costs for the Peterson adapter cable are 2 1/2 times the price of the cable alone, not to mention a 30% currency exchange rate. All totalled my cost would end up being close to $70 Canadian.
Looking on ebay I wonder if the iRig adapter would work for my android phone at a fraction of the cost.
Or could I just use a TRRS extension cable, plug it into a standard 1/8 - 1/4 adapter plug on the Bass end and plug the other end, with the TRRS, into my android headphone jack?
Any thoughts?
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Depends on which ring is wired to which ring or sleeve in their cable. I could ring it out and let you know.
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I would appreciate that.
I take it you are reffering to the iRig cable.
Although, knowing the pinout of the Peterson cable would be useful and I can just rewire the TRRS extension cable, if necessary.
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It needs to get the output of the bass (the tip) onto the microphone in (the top ring, not the tip), so I doubt it will work with a normal TRRS adapter.
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So I need to know which ring the Peterson cable is using for the microphone.
There seems to be two standards.
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it’s the latter.
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Sorry - Is that Ring-2 or the Sleeve?
#4
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So - the Sleeve - Thank you.
Hmm this is weird though. I am testing mine with a VOM now and am getting no direct continuity between the TS on one side and any of the TRRS rings or tip, either for ground or signal. So I wonder if there is more to it than just a rewiring.
Guessing it has some internal circuitry, maybe a filter or something. But even at pretty high resistance settings I wasn’t seeing any continuity at all.
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Your right about it being weird.
Please let me know if you find out what is happening.
I contacted Peterson directly but their customer service told me to just order the cable and find out the answer. Not an answer or very good customer service IMHO. Peterson could not even give me a shipping cost, which is my main concern, or a delivery date. In checking different forums I see the same type of non-answers from Peterson’s customer service or just plain being ignored by them on customer inquiries.
The iSrobosoft app works fine on my Android phone without the cable in an in-home practice session, with low ambient noise, but I was looking at using it also at jams and gigs to isolate the background noise.
I think for now I will just forget about the cable.
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I wouldn’t be surprised if an iRig worked too. It’s doing basically the same thing.
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That is what I was also thinking.
If it doesn’t work out at least I will only be out $10.
Thanks again @howard
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Squier did do a composite fretboard material on the fretless basses a few years back. The neck material is more likely to move, even with one of these composite boards. The Yamaha and Ibanez necks are made up of several pieces of timber, this in theory should give more stability, as they counteract each other. The Fender type necks are a single piece of wood and more likely to change with the weather conditions. Keeping the bass in a case or bag while not in use can help to avoid changes due to weather or humidity.
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