Well, it’s not the same, exactly but I do have 2 white BBNE2 one from 06 and another from ‘23. I can tell you that the new one already have more hours that the first one,
I have a couple of corvette $$ again to my defense, while they are both made in Germany, one is a 5 string custom color from zfretNatiom and another is a 4 string masterbuilt
Don’t get me started on StingRay because there’s the classic, no contour Flea bridge, through body stringing, neck through, USA Sub, USA Sterling, Joe dart signature, then there’s the import sterlings.
Same here!
For intonation you need to measure.
But everything else is just about getting string action height as low as possible without buzzing on any fret.
Actually I just realized my tuner doesn’t measure either, it’s a strobe tuner - it just displays the pair of strobes and it’s up to you to line them up
SInce I use MedlaProductiuon MTuner I haven’t used anything else - it’s hyper precise and it has great usability, cause of the way it displays it’s measurements,
When adjusting the Truss Rod I’ll always at least measure that… otherwise yeah I like to get the action as low as possible w/o fret buzz but that is up to each individual…
I’m a recent convert to measuring. Ive got all my basses set up the same way. I know what I like and the string height that gets me there. I use the measuring kit from music nomad. Before I started measuring, I seemed to always be messing around with the set up to avoid fret buzz, high strings, etc.
My set ups go something like this
Capo on first fret, fret e string at 12th, measure at 6th for truss rod
adjust string height to 2mm at 12th fret, g string to between 1.5 and 1.7mm, other A and D strings I adjust based on E and G.
Check for fret buzz
If first fret notes are not easy, measure first fret and file nut accordingly