We have a pretty wild temperature swing throughout the day it’s not possible to set my basses at lowest possible or I’ll spend half my playing time just adjusting relief 
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Distance from saddle to nut of each string. It works too if you use the same string gauge. Once set, when you change the bridge you just pull out your measurement and set you saddle distance it should be very close.
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I can’t see/feel well enough to use a feeler gauge so I bought a fret ruler that has notches cut out for the frets. The idea is that you can see the bow of the neck for the whole length of the neck.
Yep, this is exactly how I do mine, with a Music Nomad kit. Super easy and repeatable.
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With your stable Al1885 and SoCal weather that is easy to understand! 
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I too have the Music Nomad kit. It’s through and great stuff. But when you think about the above it is really measuring above the 12th, there a lot of neck below that, that may bow or arch too. even if it is thicker. Per the instructions for this Bass, it is was capo on the first fret, depress at the 24th fret then measure at the 7th fret. The 7th fret is still far up the neck as tool. Well, in any case just different…
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I think I get what you’re saying, but the references to “up the neck,” etc. are confusing.
With fretted instruments moving “up the neck” refers to moving the fretting hand in the direction towards the bridge; moving “down the neck” refers to moving the fretting hand in the direction towards the nut.
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Doh! … Your’re completely right. Down the neck.
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Excellent products and instructional videos.
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Yeah, aside from my arse backwards directional references. I think you got me. My point being that there is more more neck than from the 12th fret down to the nut. From the 12th up the neck towards body there is usually 8 or 9 and up 12 more frets - curious why this area is discounted. That’s all.
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if it’s a good price go back and get it before it’s gone. even without alternate tunings having one with flats and another with rounds sounds worth it enough.
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I would guess the combination of the neck being screwed into the body (restricting bowing at that end) and that as you fret up the neck towards the bridge the angle of the string increases means if you do the other stuff it will be sorted anyway
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This is talking about setting relief/adjusting the truss rod still, right? The part of the neck bolted to the body on fender style basses ends at the 15th ish fret. The truss rod mostly acts on the part of the neck that’s not reinforced by being bolted to the body, and half of 15 is about 7.
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Your comments make sense. I saying why fret the string at the 12th fret/ measure at the 6th (Music Nomad/Geoff Luttrell) verses fret where the neck meets the Body and measure at the 7th fret, (John Carruthers) …the later seems to make more sense. Btw the Jackson neck thru body Bass has you fret at the last fret 24th and measure at the 7th. (Capo at the first fret is a given for all these.)
Kinda gone down a rabbit hole here…
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When a person lives in the hick and goes to city this is the kind of thing that can happen!
Marcus has come home to hang with Geddy.
Also the Boss 110 has found a new home, a good deal through Marketplace but its going to take some playing around and a few vids to dial in some understanding and the effects.
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Nice!!!
Congrats man. MIM Marcus Miller is even harder to find than the MIA.
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Nice Jazz Basses there! Congrats
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So I’m totally diggin it, my first active bass…
More punch than the Geddy.
Weight wise the Geddy is 9.26 lbs. The Marcus is a little more but not much, I’ll get an exact on its weight soon.
But it just feels strong and it is a heavy hitter, Boom baby, boom.
Active seems to be great…
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I use the same feeler gauge set that I use to set the points in my distributor!
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