or you could… just buy a compressor pedal? but I’m also not sure why this is an issue as any bass without a physical problem should hold a note long enough for any song. is there some song I don’t know about that has like 3 minutes of sustain in one part? I mean if you just like plucking a note and hearing how long it takes to die out, fine. there’s a ton of things higher up the hierarchy IMO.
This song might need that sustain. Not sure about any others.
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What I think is interesting in these sustain videos (can’t remember which one) is the reference back to the bodiless guitar - strings between two work benches - and the fact that yes, while as a player you pick up on how the instrument feels, the pick up is picking up vibrations in a metal string and turning them into an electrical signal because it is a moving conductor in a magnetic field … and that’s not the same thing. I have one active and two passive basses and can make them all sound similar each other, if I play around with which pickups I’m using, the onboard EQ and external EQ. This is easier with the Dingwall vs the Steinberger as the Dingwall can be run passive, as well as active. My Spector is active only. All will sustain enough for anything I want to play (for example, Foo Fighters Learn to Fly needs 2 x one bar, then 1 x 1.5 bar of sustain in the verse) and using a compressor (either in the Zoom B1four) or a separate pedal, adds more than I’ll ever need.
Which then takes you back to the marketing bla bla bla of this wood vs that wood etc and the impact on tone. I get that it might change how a bass feels, but does it change what the pick ups pick up and one hears via the amp or in a recording? Yes, the construction of the instrument - pick up, electronics, the strings themselves will have a big impact on the electrical signal, but the wood a solid body bass is made from? I think many of us swallow the snake oil on this one 
I’ll get my hat…
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Which would be reason a mod just that, 
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I would make it headless too
I was being a bit facetious with the post, however, the Plus pedal is pretty darn cool. You can layer notes / chords then play over top of them. Allows you to do things not possible before. It’s basically a modified looper.
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I picked up my BB yesterday. Holy cats, this thing’s a tank. Even next to my TRBX, it’s got a few inches on it. Everything about it feels solid and I love the way my left hand glides across the fretboard. The only issue I’m having with it, is finding a wrench to adjust the truss rod. It doesn’t need an adjustment but I’d rather have one on hand before I need it. I spent some time with the guitar techs trying to find one that fit and we couldn’t.
I also picked up a power supply (MXR Iso 10) to start building out a pedalboard.
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oh I know, I meant the op could buy a compressor if he loves sustain that much. and yeah that pedal is cool. and beautiful. and expensive 
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Awesome! Congrats! Great bass.
Did you try metric 4 or 5mm?
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I went to Harbor Freight and bought an assorted set of Allen Wrenches. One is sure to fit
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Thank you, I’ve got a set of standard and metric allen wrenches in my gig bag, this thing looks more like a socket of some kind. They had one of the Gibson tools on hand but that one didn’t fit (they were going to just give it to me if it worked).
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Fender makes a funky wrench for some of their funky necks,
You might want to contact Stewmac. they have all sorts of funky truss wrenches, question is which is the correct one
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What year and model BB is that? If you have the serial number, I can help find the year.
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It’s a BB300, I was hoping that I could find the manual online for it but no joy in mudville. The S/N is MP18161 (Made in Taiwan since there’s a little wonkiness with SNs). I looked it up before I bought it and figured out it was made on Sept 18th 1986. I was 8 lol.
None of my sockets are narrow enough to get in there, Stewmac looks like they may be the way to go. I’m just really glad I’m doing this now rather than when it needs an adjustment.
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I’ve been looking into this, just because I was curious. So, I started researching.
Typically, it will use an 8mm socket but during the 80’s there were variations in the manufacturing. The 8mm Truss Rod Wrench is what you need. Some people will say a 5/16 Truss Rod Wrench is fine but according to a couple of luthier posts, the very slight variation between a 5/16 and an 8mm is enough to strip out an older truss rod nut.
The 8mm is harder to find than most. Here’s one on Amazon.
Amazon.com: Musiclily Pro 8mm Steel Truss Rod Wrench for ESP Guitar, Nickel : Musical Instruments
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Great minds. I found that post on Talking bass talking about it and had that exact 8mm wrench pulled up on Amazon.
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LoL!
As much as people hate on https://www.talkbass.com/, it’s pretty great for doing research on just about anything to do with bass.
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That looks liked a rounded-out nut, which is no fun at all.
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