Sterling Ray4, I never owned a bass before, total beginner so after looking at tons of reviews I decided to keep it simple and don’t spend too much money, but it was tempting to go for some beauty out there
it’s been perfect and like others have said as you play more you’ll figure out what you really like sound wise… actually I believe that one needs to play for some time to be able to know what works for oneself
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Makes sense. I’m definitely rethinking my options based on the advice I’ve been given here.
I keep coming back the Ray4 even when I feel like I’ve decided against it, lol. Something about it keeps calling me back. I’d likely go with the HH if I went the Sterling direction though.
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Looks like your decision has been made for you. 
If you decide to go against the Ray4 purchase the chances are you are always going to be thinking about it until you eventually purchase it anyways.
Many here have fallen into that rabbit hole.
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You’re 100% right! I kept telling myself that even if it wasn’t my first purchase, it would definitely be my second, lol.
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Ray4 has some good advantages too; it’s known to be high quality, it’s not too much more expensive than other entry level basses, so it won’t hurt too badly if it’s not for you.
Another bass in a similar price range that I would highly recommend is the TRBX304. I started with one and sold it for not too bad of a loss when I upgraded to its bigger sister, which I did because I liked it so much 
But liking a bass feel is a really subjective thing. My ranking list would be almost the opposite order of Toby’s - and that’s not because we feel dramatically different or that any of the basses are substantially better than the others, just due to personal experience and preference. They are all good and he and I share more in bass preference than we differ, and the difference comes down to small things about what we like in basses and brands.
And this is where my “start inexpensive” advice came from, because it will likely take you a bit to find what you really like. The used market is great for this.
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That’s how I was thinking too, but as a total newbie I figured that it wouldn’t matter, did you own a bass before @Pablo?
Also as anyone here will tell you this won’t be your forever bass, I’m not buying a second any time soon but I’ve thought about it already just 3 months into it (as a contrast to my 4 not a substitute)
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But you can come damned close.
As soon as @Pablo said he kept coming back to the Ray4 I was convinced that that was the one he should get.
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I started cheap( very cheap) but soon got frustrated with that and opted for an Ibanez SR650 which brought my playing on in leaps and bounds. I still have the bass and can’t see myself parting with it ever.
Next was a Fender MIM P bass. Great bass and again another keeper although I have modded the pickups and pots in it. The neck is completely different to the Ibanez and one I initially avoided when I started playing bass as I thought it would be too wide for me.
I then had a short time with an Ibanez micro and a Squier Mustang. Both great fun but I struggled with the fret spacing so they found new homes.
Then came my Rickenbacker 4001. Bought from another BassBuzzer it’s one I wanted solely because one of my musical heroes played one( Lemmy) . A real contrast and one I think I would have struggled to master in the beginning.
And now I have a Schecter Devil Custom on the way.
I guess what I’m trying to say is don’t get too wrapped up in making a decision and sticking to it.
If you’re lucky enough to strike gold with your first selection great but if not don’t beat yourself up about it.
Pick yourself up, learn from your mistakes but most importantly keep playing
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I absolutely agree with this. The list in any order is not a bad list either.
However, they are somewhat mid grade basses, and the advice to start a little lower down the scale I also agree with completely.
I got a SBMM Sterling (sterling model, not brand, see below) and liked it so much I sold it and got the Ray4.
I paid $90 for this and sold it for $125
I loved the Ray4 so much, I round a Ray34 used, in LIKE NEW condition and rescued it from a Pawn Shop it was sitting at for over a year.
I liked this bass Alot, but it didn’t feel right, and I thought it was because it sat in a Pawn Shop for well over a year, so I had it PLEK’ed (a super set up on a machine that levels the frets).
While it was out being PLEK’ed, I got a Ray4HH. I figured since I LOVED the STERLING, and I LOVED the RAY4, that the RAY4HH would be great as well.
After getting it, I loved the look, I love the Maple fretboard on IT, and the Ray34.
Unfortunately, I could not fall in love with the Ray4HH, I didn’t even really like it.
I liked the Ray34, but something felt a little off about it, compared to my Ray4.
Then I found a GREAT deal on an AWESOME EBMM Stingray (USA MADE), and got it.
I paid $1000, sold for $1000
After getting the Ray34 back, and playing the USA Stingray, there was something different about them that made them enjoyable, but not the same as the Ray4.
After lots of playing and research, I realized I had overlooked NECK SPECS. and realized the reason that I liked the Ray4 so much better then the other two (for playability and feel, the Ray34 and Stingray blew it away for sound) was because of its Jazz type neck (Called SLO or STERLING or J neck) as opposed to the P bass (or Stingray classic neck) that is wider and thicker.
I then found this USA made Stingray SLO Special. It was made limited edition, with a SLO or Jazz neck, so I bought it and sold the other one.
I also upgraded the pick up in the Ray4, and the sound now matches its awesome playability, and comes close to both the Ray34 and Stingray SLO Special.
BUT, the Ray4HH, I never liked. I have come to the opinion, because the Ray4 has crappy pick ups, the Ray4HH has crappy pick ups X 2. Yes, it gives you a 5 way selector switch, for more tonal possibilities, but I did not like ANY of them, and the only one I could really stand (with the bass and treble flat or cut to zero) was the selection that gave the single bridge pick up, just like all the other stingrays I already had.
Now
I could have replaced the pick-ups and PROBABLY gotten way better results, and probably liked, maybe even loved the Ray4HH,
BUT
That is two pick ups to replace, rather then one. I paid $120 to upgrade the pick up in my $299 Ray4. On that same logic, I found it difficult to want to add $240 to add to my $379 Ray4HH.
Was the result good on the Ray 4. HELL YES, IT WAS NOTHING SHORT OF GLORIOUS!!.
But I already have this Ray4, a Ray4HH, a RaY34, a USA Stingray and a USA Stingray SLO Special. (I had them all at the time I decided which ones to sell), so I decided to sell the Ray34, USA Stingray and the Ray4HH, because Two Stingrays is enough for me. I have a inexpensive Ray4 with an Aguilar pick up and that is amazing, and the Stingray SLO Special that is also amazing. Believe it or not, I play the cheaper one way more the n the expensive one, and, although I would never sell off the Stingray, I can Hardly tell the two apart.
I did find two pick ups that would have only cost $104 total, and they were good pick ups, so I could have done that with the Ray4HH, but there is the other issue that I am used to all that FREE real estate between the neck and the bridge pick up, so the neck pick up feels a little invasive. Only a little, and it is easy to get used to and overcome, but again, WHY when I am already happy with the single pick up model, it is just RIGHT for me.
Also
I don’t know if the PRE-AMP in the Ray4HH is any good to run two upgraded pick ups. I know the Ray4 is good enough (for me, I have no complaints), but on the 5 way selector, you are asking more out of a pre-amp, and that stock one may have to be replaced also. IDK for sure, but that would be another expense, at least $80, most likely more than that.
Lobster just did an upgrade on a Ray4HH, and it sounds GREAT, but he put in over $400 in pick ups and pre-amp, so that is more then the bass cost.
YES, you get a great bass, but the ONLY reason I see to do this over getting a RAY34HH is for the Jazz neck. If you must have that (and I think that I must), then that would be the better option for about the same price. I will post his video at the end.
3 things to take from this post.
#1 - you can see how easy it is to go thru many basses to find the right ones. I just showed you my experience going thru 5 Stingrays to get the 2 that I am keeping and play daily. AND that is ONLY my STINGRAY JOURNEY. I went thru 4 Ibanez, 1 Yamaha, 1 Schecter, 1 Squire, 3 ESP LTD’s, and a DEAN. Some before I started with Stingrays, some during. (fortunately, there was a pandemic, I was on disability, had loads of free time, a pretty decent income and very little living expense.)
#2 - The 2nd hand market (USED) is your best friend in many cases, but the return policy for many major retailers works well too, but you can’t make any profit when returning them. In some cases, I made profit reselling basses I decided not to keep.
AND
#3 and possibly the most important of the 3 in your case. THE RAY4 IS A GREAT BASS. Build quality, fit and finish, decent hardware, strings I like come on it, looks bas ass, and for the money it is one of the best bass deals you can find.
BUT
They do have to cut cost somewhere, and on the Ray4, they did that with the pick up. There are many reasons the pick up is not great, and there are other threads where I have gone into that detail, but the Ray4 stock, sounds pretty good if you leave the BASS and TREBLE all the way down. you can scoot the bass up to about 50% and be OK, and even get the treble to about 20% (actually not a bad stingray setting for any of the basses, close to what I use anyway), but if you go over that, the low end distorts and the high end makes your ears bleed.
The Ray4HH, again is a great bass, fit and finish, build qulaity, cool color options, great looking bass, everything any stingray model is, but it has the same problem with the Ray4, they cut the cost to offer such a great bass for under $400 (for the HH, $300 for the H) by using crappy pick ups. The problem with the Ray4HH, is that BIG problem is DOUBLED, and possibly Tripled if the pre-amp can’t handle new pick ups well (IDK, I don’t have experience with this).
It is a great idea. For the Ray34HH and a Stingray 4HH (like Brian @adkjdb) has is probably great with lots of tonal range (if you like the bigger neck, and you may, it is not a bad thing, it is just something to consider), but they are both considerably more expensive then the Ray4HH, and if you have to put in 2 pick ups and a pre-amp, then the Ray4HH also becomes expensive.
Ray34HH around $800 and up Stingray 4HH around $2400, so yes, those better have some bad ass pick ups and pre-amp driving them.
If you insist on getting a Ray4HH (and that still will not be a bad choice, it still is a strong contender within your stated list of basses to choose from), just be aware that at some point, you are gonna want to change the electronics.
AGAIN, that is not a bad option. The SBMM Ray4 and Ray5 and Ray4HH and Ray5HH ARE AMONG THE BEST BUDGET BASSES TO UPGRADE YOU CAN BUY. There are so many possibilities out there to upgrade these bad ass basses, I could fill a whole thread and link to 20 plus videos to show 50% of them. So if you want the Ray4HH (for extended tonal range, which is a valid decision), just be aware that you have 2x crappy pick ups and not only one to contend with. I know from experience that you can swap out the pick up in the Ray4, AND KEEP THE PRE-AMP STOCK, and have a great bass.
It is possible you can keep the pre-amp stock on the Ray4hh and put in two Kent Armstrong pick ups for $52 each (good pick ups), and have a great bass, but, unfortunately, I sold my Ray4HH instead of trying that out.
Lobster also has a video showing a Ray4 with an Aguilar pick up and stock pre-amp (like my set up) and a 2nd video with the pre-amp upgraded to Aguilar too. I can’t hear enough difference to justify the extra $160 so stock works for me. Lobster also has a video where he fully upgrades the Ray4HH (very recent, like this week) and it sounds AMAZING, Unfortunately, he does not have a video with ONLY the pick ups upgraded, keeping the stock preamp, so again, this is a shot in the dark, I don’t have an answer for that.
Anyway, as promised, here is the Lobster Ray4HH video. This bass looks and sounds AWESOME.
Ray4-HH - $379
EMG Pick ups - approx. $140 each, so $240
EMG Pre-amp - approx. $150
Totally solder less upgrade that can be done from home, but total price
Approx $769 plus tax and possible shipping.
(I don’t have exact prices, but last time I checked that was about the EMG pick up price. It is possible that there is a PACKAGE DEAL that sells the two pick ups and pre-amp for a lower price, but I still think it would be around $350, if it even exists)
One more thing to consider, he also upgraded the Bridge, Tuners, Control cover, Pick guard, so he spent WELL over $1000.
BUT IT IS FREAKING AMAZING
If possible, I would look for a USED (in no particular order)
a Ray4
a Ray4HH
a Ibanez SR300
a ESP LTD B model
a Schecter Stiletto (many of their models use the Stiletto body shape, so lots of options)
a Yamaha RBX, TRBX or BB model bass
Find ones $250 or lower (SR 300 should be found for $200 or lower, Ray4 $200, ESP LTD may be more like $300, Schecter, depends on model and seller, Yamaha, probably $250 and up)
AND GET 3 or 4 of them, instead of dropping $700 - $800 on ONE bass.
You can keep all of them,
You can sell all but one
You can sell them all and start over going in a completely different direction.
You WILL learn more about basses, and you will find the things you like as far as FEEL, Playability, and sound.
It will take time to even know what one or which ones feel better, play better, and sounds better TO YOU.
You can sell (often for profit if you are patient) the ones you don’t want, and invest that money into a better model of the ones you like, or just get another kind of bass entirely, to change up your arsenal, like get a Ray4, a Squire Jazz and a Squire P bass.
You get alot of options if you go used (even if you buy used from places like Guitar Center or Sweet Water, Musicians Friend - THEY ALL HAVE GREAT RETURN POLICIES, and it includes USED items. Guitar Center is best for returns, because you can take it to one instead of having to ship back at your expense, maybe Sam Ash too)
You get more bang for your buck if you go used
You can try alot more basses and find your best ones if you go used, easier or cheaper then if you go new for them all.
Also, last thing.
You won’t make a WRONG choice if you get anything you listed or go by the advice of anybody who has posted. You may not like your choice, but it won’t be a WRONG choice, you will just need to make a different choice if the first one does not work out.
I enjoy hunting for basses and gear, buying, trying, keeping, selling. It is a whole separate hobby / addiction to me then the actual playing, which I am equally addicted to . It is part of the fun, so please make it fun and try not to stress about anything, like I said, there is not really a WRONG choice, unless you choose not to get a bass and not play at all.
And
If you find used basses, it is a good idea to post pictures or links to the add here, and we can tell you if it is a good deal or if you can find better deals.
You can end up paying too much for a bass, if you don’t know what the actual value is, but we are here to help and can advise towards a purchase or away from one.
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I have. Way back I had a Squier, maybe Affinity P bass. And a few years back I had an Ibanez, a GSR200.
At the time I wasn’t as committed to learning as I am now, which is why I figure I’m itching to make up for lost time. Finally got my priorities straight, lol.
Makes sense, I haven’t landed on my current one but along the process I’m mentally taking notes for a “next bass” but in a different flavor.
This whole thread has been helpful in helping me gain some clarity around my choices.
What did you land on as your current bass?
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Thanks for the in-depth post, makes a lot of sense. It’s great info on the Sterling if I go that way, I’m pretty clear on what I’m getting there as far as options. Awesome collection you’ve had there.
I saw that same video by Lowendlobster. The guy is a beast at modding out his gear.
As far as the used gear, I’m currently looking at pretty much those models you listed in your post.
One question for you and everyone else here, how old of a used bass should I be looking at, or how NOT old?
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Sire is a great brand for start. The amp is really powerful, fun and second gen. of their basses is very well crafted.
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I wouldn’t say age is necessarily a criteria compared to condition, but generally you can often find great used deals even on current models. The used market is full of people’s broken rockstar dreams
Until you know how to evaluate things I would say sticking to ~5-10 years old or more recent is a good idea. This won’t rule out much.
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I’m still on my 4, the one on my profile pic
My next bass buy will be the zoom effect machine thing… when I get a second bass it’ll probably be something with a more mellow sound… I haven’t put much thought to it but I’m taking mental notes from the more experienced people here so I’m not at a total loss when I go for it
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Take a trip to the little shop over the bridge, he has an extensive collection of MM basses, new and old.
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Like Howard said, its more about how well the bass was cared for, rather then how old it is. I have a Ray34 from between 2008 and 2011. I had a 2004 Stingray, and 2010 Ibanez SR300, and 2012 SR400QM.
All were in great condition, and did not FEEL old at all. To some, OLDER is better and even others pay top dollar to have a NEW bass RELIC’d to look like it is 40 years old.
Many older basses were built better then they are today, but the CHEAPER BUDGET basses seem to have gotten MUCH BETTER in the more recent years (10 give or take a few years),
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When I was buying my bass, a friend of mine who’s a guitar player told me that when he was starting out 15 20 years ago, entry level instruments were horrific. Luckily instrument brands have figured out that i’s much more lucrative to sell someone one good instrument for the start (companies don’t make much money on lower tiers of their ranges) and he will sooner or later buy more better instruments with much higher ROI. It’s absolute win for us as newbies I think. I am totally biased, but low tier Sire basses are absolutely ridiculous buy atm. and Yamaha, Fender, Ibanez don’t produce shiet either. So with 200 bucks in a pocket one can buy a really good instrument. I love my M2, yet I return to my Squier PJ here and there because it’s well built and completely different beast to little M2.
To Pablo: I spent a lot of time ruminating over my first bass, but the fact is that you shouldn’t be bothered by build quality and playability when you chose a known brand in the range of 180 bucks+. Even in these lower price ranges, features are now the think you should consider the most.
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What do you guys think of these Cort Artisan basses?
I heard a reviewer placing these in the same category as the Ibanez SR300E, Yamaha TRBX304 line. The consensus is that for the components, it’s a great value bass.
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That’s a nice looking bass for under 400.00 bucks. Active, passive too. Mark bass pre amp, Bart pickups there a lot going on, in this bass.
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