New Bass Buy Decision

Gear
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Hi All,

Still a fledgling bass player and still muddling through my lessons after far too long, but have none the less created justification and empathy with my wife to get the green light on buying a new bass.

I’m looking for experienced conjecture, opinions and advice and am ok with snark and fun :slight_smile:

When I started playing I started with Squire Classic Vibe 60s P bass and Ampeg RB115.
After a few months I invested in a proper setup but also decided to add the Steve Harris signature pickups and strings. Tech at GC did a great job and aside from being much lighter it has an amazing sound…but only for Maiden and other similar type of metal.
What I learned is that those strings are super heavy and makes it really hard to play anything needing heavier bends or similar. It’s great for the aggressive attack though and great budget version of the signature.

Then left fret hand carpel tunnel set in (old Air Force injury from loading missiles for 8 years) and I was limited to about 15 mins playing before hand would go numb or aching.

After some PT on it for a couple months I was ready to play again but it was still an issue so I used that as justification to purchase a short scale bass…a Squire Paranormal Rascal.
I’ve really enjoyed playing it and love the 60’s vibe and sound it puts out but the bridge is mounted really high up on the body so the even though the fretboard is short scale it’s as long as my 34" P bass and the muscle memory of my mostly my right hand is throwing me. I still play my knock off Steve Harris Squire but when I switch back it’s a struggle.

So now, I’ve gotten better at playing but again feel limited between the two and their setups. Looking back I should have just stopped on the P bass with setup and new strings and that would be a more versatile bass for me.

So thanks for reading all that…Here’s where my heads at now.
I really like the jazz neck on the PJ basses. Love the idea of the bridge pickup and added tones and so I’ve been eyeballing the Lakland Skyline Geezer Butler basses. The new version hits stores in about 3 weeks.

Fender has a decent sale going on now as well on their Player and American 2 basses but their PJ basses have the standard 1.62" nut width.

I don’t play with anyone else beside my grandson on occasion so it’s mostly me banging away with bourbon after work to relieve stress or before bed.

I play, try to play/learn, mostly 60s -70s classic rock and 80s metal but have been trying to learn more R&B as well.

Looked and toyed with the idea of a Ricks too and especially would love to bump the budget and find a Al Cisneros Signature Rick cause it’s cool as hell. But I’ve never played one and feel like that may be another niche limited use for me bass…or maybe not?

FWIW my son (31) plays guitar and thinks I should invest in a better amp over a new bass.

Budgeting $2000

Sorry this is so damn long…but if I’m looking for guidance or a sounding board, I figure the details matter :wink:

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Have you considered a real short scale bass? There are a number on the market. Fender makes the Mustang, which has a very friendly neck, is light and easy to play. There are different pickup variations, even one with a wide range humbucker like the Rascal. Although that is only used.

Ibanez makes an EHB1000SS short scale if you like humbuckers.

What kind of bass are you looking for? What kind of music do you want to play?

The Seymour Duncan SPB4, the Steve Harris model, is a fine pickup and versatile, I use it with lighter strings.

A $2k budget will cover a lot of ground, too many options so trying to narrow it down. I would get for that money an Offbeat bass come to think of it.

https://reverb.com/item/78375875-offbeat-guitars-roxie-30-short-scale-bass-in-cinnamon-on-pine-emg-geezer-butler-p-pickup-gotoh-hardware

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He’s not wrong. A good amp definitely makes your bass sound good.

If I’m going spend 2 grand I’d probably look for used option to stretch the dough.

There are too many good choices a combination of me you can spend 1500 on a bass a 500 on an amp would make for a great shopping experience.

But stripping me of my bass possessions :scream: and hand me 2k and send me on a quest to a short scale bass and amp combo.

Without hesitation, I’d go for an American performer mustang bass. If you don’t have to have the satin finished body (sea foam green or Olympic white) then you can saves a a few hundred. The mustang looks great and feel awesome.

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For the amp would be a genzler BA10-2 combo. You can put one together about a grand, used. There’s a few cab for $500 and the head, Magellan 350, for $500 and $30 for the bracket. This amp is so awesome. It’s a neutral tuning amp, what you hear is what your bass sounds like, no signature tone nonsense.

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I’ll break this down into the two components, bass and amp, and start with the amp.

I also play a Genzler MG350 Combo and it is an incredible sounding rig. That said for home use by a relatively new bassist that Ampeg RB115 should be all you need for now. At 200w it’s powerful enough to even play a jam with others provided the volume is reasonable. Spending a grand or more on an MG350 combo is not gonna make you a better bassist any more than it makes me a better bassist. I’ve been playing for over 50 years and to get better I still need to spend hours practicing.

So…what’s left? The bass. You need a bass that’s comfortable enough for you to spend the hours of practice it takes to get good. I’ve given a lot of lessons over the years and I often as not suggest a Jazz Bass or another brand with a similar neck. Most find the narrower width to be easier to negotiate initially. Next consider scale length. For those with smaller hands or any type of handicap that may impact reach/finger spread or cause discomfort a 34" or 35" scale may be more difficult to learn on.

For those who experience this a short scale bass is probably the best bet. I have a Sire U5 30" scale bass I can use when giving lessons and even have a student use to determine if a short scale bass is easier for them to play. The neck has the 1.5" nut width of a Jazz Bass and the profile is less chunky than a PBass. There are dozens from other manufacturers to chose from as well. I’m only suggesting one that I own and play so I know precisely what it is and what it isn’t. Cost new is roughly $500.

You may not want to hear this but for now forget about the best tonality and focus on what you’re most easily able to play and learn on. Once you’ve reached the point of competence that satisfies you then you can look at dropping $1000-$2000 on a high end bass rig if you like. That’s where I would spend more money than on the bass itself since many lower cost import basses sound and play just fine. And as you’ve already learned swapping pickups and strings are the simplest and cheapest way to upgrade any basses tonal shortcomings. String type has far more impact on a bass than it does on a guitar and the selection of different types is very broad. Once you’re playing better you can spend a few bucks experimenting since some basses sound better with certain string types than others. That’s yet another learning experience to look forward to.

Hope I’m not coming across as too opinionated here as I’m only trying to use decades of experience playing semi-professionally live and in studios to offer suggestions I believe will help get you where you want to be much faster. This is also the same advice I offer to every student I’ve ever taught and it typically works.

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Great advice all around. :+1:

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Thanks. I post here to help as much as possible mostly having already made about every gear mistake a guy could ever make until I began to realize what makes the most difference and what doesn’t. I also spent thousands of dollars learning those lessons over time so if I can save others from making some of the same mistakes I have well then it’s been a good day. :+1:

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So much good info here!
Appreciate the time y’all took for some solid advice.

Fighting the impulse devil on my left shoulder versus the practical angel on my right lol

One thing I notice when I play my short scale vs the full scale p bass is the the closer fret distance is definitely easier on my hand and I play cleaner with the one exception being when I cross over to either e or a strings I tend to push the string past the fret board with the narrow neck.

Is that wholly a technique issue based on minimal experience or a product of the more limited space on the narrow neck?
Would a “standard” width neck but short scale bass address that?
What basses would have that configuration?

Ultimately, based on everyone’s guidance, a little personal fleshing out and lots of other post I’ve seen …I really need to spend some time fondling some options at my local friendly guitar shop with a focus on short scale or jazz neck basses before I plunge into the expense. I get stressed spending $20 extra on good bourbon, but it’s fun and exciting to shop for this :smiling_face:

Looking forward to posting up outcome!
Thank you all, this is a great forum and the options shared are great!

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I see the Ibanez EHB1000S was mentioned earlier in this thread. I have one, it’s blurry fantastic to play. Light, comfortable and the scale length makes it feel like a guitar! It also looks fantastic, and when you work out how to EQ it, it’s surprisingly versatile. The fact that mine is so also a pinky gold colour is also a win!

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It’s just a technique issue. There’s no reason for you to push the strings laterally unless you’re bending a note and even then I’d ask why you feel the need to do it. Proper technique should have you depressing the string vertically without creating any horizontal movement that would alter pitch. Leave bends for the guitarists at least for now. A wider neck is not a solution for this.

In over 50 years I have never had an issue with pushing a string off the side of a fret board no matter what bass I was playing including those with a Jazz Bass width neck. There’s really no such thing as a “standard width neck”. Most four string basses use one of three nut widths; 1.5", 1.625", and 1.75". What differs is the width of the neck between the 1st and 12th fret and the profile which is the shape and depth of the neck from the top of the fretboard to the bottom of the neck.

Starting out play what’s more comfortable to you which may be the slimmer 1.5" nut width Jazz Bass type neck. How that width increases as you move up the neck is dependent on a specific bass. Once you’ve played a few you’ll find ones that are more comfortable for you than others. Those are the ones you should play. But initially focus on proper technique. It’s critical if you want to advance to playing more complex bass lines. Not doing so is like trying to dance before you learn how to walk. It’s boring as hell. I know that so get used to the boredom. There’s a lot about bass lines that are boring too so it’s always gonna be there to some degree.

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Thank you!
Sage words, I appreciate the time you took for some advice.
Going to video myself playing and try to ID why I’m doing that. Not every time, but if I had to guess it comes from playing faster than capable on some efforts and getting sloppy.
Once I get back to city this week I’ve got some basses to try out!

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Take a look at the G&L Tribute short scale. I have one, bought for $525.00 used and Fender Rumble 500, $300.00 used. I’ve rocked many a house and made a wad of dough with that set up.

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If you’re patient G&L will often offer B stock Fallout models on their website on for around $425. I have a Sire U5 shortscale I like a lot that sold for $485. There are many out there to chose from in the $400-$500 price range.

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The only “knock” I have heard about the G&L is that it’s relatively heavy in comparison to the other shorties. Which do you prefer, your G&L or the Sire U5?

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I played a G&L and didn’t notice the weight, so I don’t think it was heavy. Never laid eyes on a U5 so no opinion other than Sire is quality from my experience.

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Sire U5 is a blast to play. I love mine. Great PJ at an affordable price

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My shortscale is the Sire U5. It weighs 8lbs pretty much on the nose. Some G&Ls are a bit on the heavy side but I’ve never owned a Fallout. My G&Ls have all been full 34" scale basses. My Tribute L2500 was the only one over 9lbs and only by a few ounces. The Kiloton I just sold to faydout and my M2000 are under 9lbs.

I could’ve gone with the G&L Fallout but wanted to check out a Sire having heard very good things about them. At this point I’d say I prefer the P/J pickup arrangement and electronics of the Sire vs the single MFD Fallout. It’s more versatile tonally and the body is sleeker. In either case as imports go both are top shelf.

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It’s not the weight, the only small issue I have with the Fallout is the overall length of the bass, it’s nearly the same length as the standard scale. I love everything about that bass and the funky electronics is just ever so awesome. That one minor thing that kept me from owning one is the overall length.

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I play the G&L Fallout short scale, payed $525.00 shipped to my door. That MFD pick up is bad-ass and I rarely switch it to turbo mode, just too much unless you’re trying to blow someone’s hair back. It lays on the scale at 9.5 pounds with strap but at the end of the day you’d be hard pressed to find more guitar for the money. Great fret board, nice pots, great bridge, thru body stringing. I put LaBella Deep talking flat wound bass strings on it and never looked back.

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Yeah, I can honestly say there’s not enough difference in the basic quality between Sire and G&L Tributes to be concerned with. I own or have owned 6 G&L Tribute guitars and basses and all have been top shelf quality wise and represent good value for a similar price to what Sires run.

The decision comes down to the differences between a Sire U5 and a G&L Fallout that are based upon body style, weight, pickups/electronics (tonality), etc, because they are very different in that respect. I don’t feel anyone could make a bad choice with either as long as they went with what they preferred feature wise.

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G&L : SIRE are both winners
I have both; Two different animals

I have never been disappointed with either of those brands at any price point

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