I see what you did there.
as much as I have espoused their virtues, my time with Stringjoy has come to an end. I loved spending hours on the tension calculator, trying to find that perfect set. It’s not really that noticeable tbh, even if I think they are nice strings.
But they are dark-sounding strings. On three instruments in a row, now, dark. I wonder if this is why people say Stringjoys last longer? Because they’re already a bit darker than others? I thought my SIX28 w/ its D Activators was just dark-sounding, but then I put them on my Legator and now it’s darker sounding and I can’t continue recording with it like this, it sounds too different. I didn’t really mess with the EQ to try and get it back, tbh. It’s not a bad or dull/dead sound, but it’s definitely different.
But there are others that offer the same thing Stringjoy does, I’ve discovered on SSO, so I might look into that, or stop being a cork sniffer XD
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This is what I found on Labella’s RX rounds.
Darker.
I called them “the flat lover’s rounds”
Not full or dead, different.
Now I have several sets in the drawer of coils.
After going to the store to buy a set of NYXL 9-80, these sound great and fine. I… think I might have monitored them mono on a stereo track and introduced fuckery. I… I don’t know anymore. But now I have a $20 set of strings to try next o.O
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I just thought I check for flatwounds other then GHS for my Mustang…
D’Addario flats $70-$110 Dollars. LaBella even more. The least expensive ones: Fender LONG SCALE flats for $45 Dollars.
I guess I have to love my mended, cut and mistreated GHS set that was originally long scale.
BTW. I have a short scale Rotosound Jazz set which I really liked on my G&L but the E-string just sounds terrible after the 10th fret in the short scale version. The string is not damaged. Any suggestions on why that’s happening?
Just a thought, but to get the lower notes, they have to be lower tension and/or thicker, at least to some degree. At the higher frets they’re just too flubby to consistently vibrate at a higher frequency just about an octave higher than the open E. That’s my guess. The Steve Harris flats are heavy gauge, but are high tension strings and play really nicely on the higher frets on the E.
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You might try a set of GHS Bass Boomers in Medium. They are a great sounding string, and the medium set is 50-70-90-107, which is the heaviest gauge I could find. In short scale.
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Just because the frets are there, doesn’t mean you should play them, lol.
That’s what the A string is there for. 
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Great tip on the strings and tension topic! Thanks. The GHS are a 105 set I just cut, brutally and have lower tension than the Rotosounds and have an even tone unlike the Rotosounds (at those 4 high frets) but the set is 100.
When I got the Mustang a luthier had strung it with the last 4 strings of a set of 5 and sounded amazing. They are rounds though.
Unfortunately those are rounds. When I bought the Mustang from a luthier he gave it to me with the last 4 strings of a 5 set! The tension wasn’t a problem and yes, they were simply cut to the length.
Hi Everyone! Has anybody tried a short scale flatwound set of Thomastik-Infeld (JF324 - 43, 56, 70, 106) strings? Perhaps even on a top load Fender Mustang?
I said fukk it and put the NYXLs on my SIX28 with the D Activators. This is an excellent combination. They NYXLs woke it up, notes are crisper and most importantly more tightly defined. I probably won’t rip off the brand new Stringjoys I just put on my Legator, but I do kinda want them to wear out so I can try the NYXLs on that guitar soon 
It’s a good point though. I haven’t found a bass yet where the B string sounds good above the 7th fret. Just a flat, sad timbre. I am willing to bet a 35"+ bass could maybe make it to the 10th - maybe.
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I just tuned my red C-5 GT to B0 and the 12th fret is okay. The 13th is a little wooly, and the 14th is BRAAAAAA super powerful. Tuned to C1 it did this at the 12th fret. The string is a DR Hi-Beam .125 stainless steel. This was on my DarkPre preset. On a less aggressive preamp, it’s a lot more in control in that region XD
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Cool, that’s good news. I’ve mostly done this with .135s so maybe the .125 stays good for longer 
OMG YESSS 666 SLAAAAYERRR!!! 
Now let’s have a bubble tea and discuss our strings 
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I couldn’t say about an B string since I have never had a 5 string bass in my hands but going back to my original topic, the GHS flats sound fine even on the 12th fret of the E string but the Rotosound sound really bad after the 9th fret. I already put the GHS back. And I guess that if that was normal on most basses, most basses would have less than 10 frets. What’s the point if they are not worth using. I have already read multiple complaints on how bad Rotosound short scale strings are and how great they are for long scale basses.
JBE is here. First impressions are it looks high quality
Now to get it done and see if it sounds as good as it looks
Ooooohhhhhh, blade…
This Rotosound Swingbass light .120-.035 set sounds great on my Stiletto. The EB set I put on there, the .125 5th string sounded kinda dead/tubby compared to the rest, it’s… odd. The .120 sounds better, but it’s still not as nice as the other strings when it comes to punch. As a whole the set sounds really good, though, and unlike most stainless strings they don’t feel sticky at all. I think I’ll eventually replace the stainless strings on my other two Schecters with this or a similar Rotosound set that is slightly heavier (.125 .100 .080 .060 .040).
I do have to turn the bass down a bit on the Tone Capsule or the low string clips the preamp. Oof. But the B6’s SolidPre makes up for it with its selectable low and high controls 