Yeah that is on top of the list, from what I have read and watched it is the go to.
There are also a lot of oddballs out there with very varying tone from super bright to mildly meh.
Since I have a EBMM HH, and it is a bit hard to slap with with the neck pickup in the way, maybe the Aguilar AG4M is the way to go. However, it is only wired in straight parallel, so cannot switch series/parallel. Not a big deal, but the push/pull would be rendered useless.
Don’t want to get off topic too much, and I know I’m reviving an old discussion from a few months ago on this thread, but I just ran across this article on why the imperial measurement system (and a lot of old measurement systems) have been able to survive and even thrive when the metric system is objectively superior (for a bunch of reasons.) I thought you might like to take a look - really interesting read.
In a nutshell it comes down to practicality for common use - the metric system often produces measurements for everyday items/situations that are hard to remember, non-intuitive, and difficult to calculate in your head vs. many imperial measurements that are based on everyday intuitive knowledge, easy to remember and usually easily calculated because they are divisible like @Barney mentioned.
(I’d never thought about it much before - scientist by profession means I’ve been in the metric camp forever.)
The article is a bit tongue-in-cheek and makes fun of some metric outcomes, it’s meant to be humorous - but it gives some common sense examples of why imperial can be very practical - and that’s why it’s still hanging on and in use.
Thank you for pointing this out. Yes, I love this article!
I think it highlights the key point, every system is optimized for some perspective and will be awkward from some different perspective. It’s always an arbitrary choice based on priorities.
It’s neat for someone that water boils at 100 degrees, but if you are a videographer maybe you want the color temperature of daylight to be 100 degrees.
I want to design and carve a body for a short-scale bass one day… with some help for the technical part, it could be feasible. But I can’t find measures of pick-up positions in standard P or PJ basses, let alone short-scale ones.
How could one approach the problem? I wouldn’t even start considering what neck to buy without knowing I can copy the set-up of an existing bass with reasonably placed pick-up(s). I don’t want to reinvent the wheel.
I’ve seen @athosmr2003 original construction, how did you decide on the pick-up placement in the body? Sorry if I missed an explanation, but was scrolling quickly trough thousand of posts
Could anybody help me, and measure where the pick-ups sit, for example, on a Sire U5 or a Mustang?
Thanks to someone who posted on another thread. So helpful.
That would help you determine where to place your bridge and your neck and body length.
As for the pickup placement, SG style would have extreme neck pick up placement. Jazz is kinda up to you, you can go with traditional length and get the pickup template from Stewmac. Single set of P is in the middle somewhere between neck heel and bridge. MM or Humbucker usually more toward the bridge how close to the bridge is up to your secret sauce recipe. I don’t think it’s critical as where you put the pickup would generate their unique sound.
For me, the Moolah Bass was a little different because it has a Jazz MIM neck but the body itself isn’t very long. I had Terry make the measurements for me using tape to mark the locations of the pickups and the bridge.
This little guy is done.
Swapped the stock pickup (crap) with a Seymour Duncan SMB-4A (fantastic), wired the push/pull series/parallel Vs series/south single coil (yep, that’s how it came, and looked purposefully done, sigh).
Two saddle screw heads snapped instantly when adjusting so swapped them all out with hex heads.
Had some skull knobs and this strap on bins which seemed appropriate. $7 truss rod cover and GHS Boomers (red silks matchy matchy) and this is a very decent single H bass! Since no onboard tones preamps will come in handy that I have.
I had totally forgotten I ordered this on AliExpress. Ordered it months ago on AliDelay, to my old address and totally forgot.
Arrived at my new address today. It’s a replacement Peavey neck, stylewise it’s like a Millenium or Milestone neck. It may be a factory reject from actual Peavey stock. The maple fingerboard is gorgeous and perfect. The back of the neck has some dings. Minor stuff, totally sandable. The fingerboard is slitted for frets, but this one will be fretless. I love surprises!
My Squier is becoming a bit of a project. When I swapped out the pickups for the Geezer Butler EMGs, I had an awful hum. I went back in, added another ground to the neck pickup which sorted out the hum. When I put it back together, bridge pickup didnt work. Took it apart again, one of the plugs had slipped off the volume knob, breaking the connection. Reattached the cable, verified everything worked, put it all back together. Was fine for three days, yesterday bridge pickup is not working again. Will go in later today to check the connections again. If that is the problem, I will forever swear off plug n play and learn how to solder
Not to mention the bass needs a proper setup since the original swap. I don’t seem to have a small enough hex key for adjusting the string height, need to pick one up. My A string is so high it is noticably quieter than the E, D, and G strings, even though pickups are at a good height.
On the bright side, I am getting damn good at working on the electronics without taking the strings off, and am getting a lot of playing time on my five string with all the time this one is spending on the bench.