I have that idea also, but it’s comparable to going on an extreme makeover and then forgetting about cleaning your teeth… after you ate some chocolate brownie
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And here I am rusting parts on purpose for that vintage look. 
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Maybe on my next project 
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I’m so lucky.
Here I thought I would have less money this month and then some bookkeeping fuckery happens and I get a little more than usual. I won’t get into the details but it isn’t an error - I talked to my superior and it’s correct.
So this will soon arrive at my doorstep:
Not only did I get more money than I expected. The build kit is also in stock by now instead of available in 1-2 weeks!
What a good day to be alive.
cough back to work.
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I’m pretty curious about those kits. Please try to document the process step-by-step 
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I planned to do that anyway but since someone asked for it now I will make sure to document it. There was already someone who built 2 kits but only showed the result here in the forum: Kit Bass Builds
Still if you have any questions there’s someone who finished 2 kits. Probably not exactly mine but so far I haven’t heard of a lot of quality differences between those build kits.
From what I’ve read in reviews of the product is that it comes with clear step-by-step instructions. Even if so I will document that part too.
Also most of the reviewers were positively suprised at the quality overall. I will be too if the result is a playable bass that sounds ok.
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They’re very simple to put together although they can be time consuming if you really want a nice finish on the body.
The manual that came with mine said “ Sand, sand and then sand again. And once you think you’ve done enough, sand again”!!!
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Oh…
That’s something I haven’t asked before: What kind of tools do I need? I assume different grains of sandpaper would be a good idea? I think I would like to get the tools before the package arrives so I can begin as soon as it does.
I already have a sabre saw, screwdrivers of course, hammers (including a rubber one) and well what one usually already has for home improvement. Not sure about the name “sabre saw”. I looked up a translation and it translated to a lot of different saws including jigsaw. I’m talking about an electrical saw in which the blade goes up and down.
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Hi @juli0r,
If I were you I’d leave the Sabre saw in the shed unless you want to some serious body mods,
You just need good sand paper starting with course working up to 1200 grit or even finer to give better finish, and resend after every coat of paint you put on.
Cheers Brian
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@juli0r
When you put the clear coat on and sand between coats, you should be able to polish to a really nice finish.
As @Mac has said sand and sand.
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The headstock is not cut out. I wanted to leave the body as it is but the headstock needs some more form than it arrives in.
Most if not all of the people in the reviews adjusted the headstock. Sometimes with a hand saw so I don’t think that’s a part I want to leave out.
Maybe I’m missing the english vocabulary or the woodworking vocabulary in general. Resend? Oh… resand. Yeah, that makes more sense xD And here I thought…
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Hi @juli0r,
Depends how you want the headstock to look, using a router could give you some nice contours?
Cheers Brian
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That’s the thing - I do own the saw, I do not own a router and in my mind cutting a rough shape with the saw and then sanding it down seems okay to me.
While I would also buy additional tools if needed. So far I just don’t see the reason for the other option.
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I used a jigsaw to rough cut the shape and then sanded until I was happy with it @juli0r
And as @TNKA36 has said start out at about 400 grit and work your way down to a minimum of 1200 grit. I went as far as 3000 grit paper and wet sanded it before the final coat of oil . Then polished the wood with a cutting paste and then a wax polish
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Okay. So off to the home improvement store and get sand paper starting with grit 400 and go up to at least 2000. (Yes - I read your minimum. That’s what I take away from that anyway)
About oiling/waxing - are there some instructions in the instructions of the kit about which kind to use? As far as I have picked up it may make a vast difference depending on the wood!?
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yes, and it could be done with a jig saw to make roughly the shape. but a hand saw will work too.
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I purchased a finishing kit with my bass kit but reading afterwards I probably would have been as well using Tung oil .
I also used a grain sealer on the bare wood to bring out the natural patterns in the wood.
You could also paint the body but that’s something I am not at all familiar with.
If I can help along the way just shout out @juli0r
I found it very therapeutic to build the bass and I’m seriously thinking of doing another
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I remember in school we had a woodworking class and I always enjoyed myself. Although we never did the finishing touches but just the cutting/sanding. Once we moved into the city I didn’t have a place to do such stuff. In the house of my parents we had a workshop cellar with tools and workbench and everything. It was awesome.
I’m not sure but I think I will just take the body to the shop and ask the guy in the wood department what I can and what I should do and use. In my experience when avoiding rush hour/normal shopping times they are knowledgeable in their field and help you out. Problem always just arises when there are too many customers 
When it’s empty I always felt that the clerks of the shop helped with insightful information and comments.
Of course the advice of all of you is always very welcome still!
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Carefully use a little Scotchbrite to remove the surface rust, then…
I’ve used this on bare metal when I didn’t want to repaint, and it works great.
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Hi @Mac,
I am gunna have a go at painting mine using automotive paint.
I have a colour that I can get made up in pressure packs.
The research I’ve done and advise I’ve been given so far regarding the Yamaha is as follows.
As it’s currently black I need to do is sand that back to create a ruff surface in preparation for the base coat.
Apply the base coats and sand between each coat.
Apply top coats and sand using finer paper between each coat.
Then apply clear with a tint of the colour in it and sand again between coats and then after all that should be able to polish back for a really nice finish.
See how it goes👍
Cheers Brian
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