Ramp is really cool, it sits under the strings it generally provides a consistent feel below the string when you plug, it could be up very close or a few mm below the strings which prevent digging and allows for faster play. If designed right it would also provide a comfortable place for thumb rest at the right spot about 15-25mm above the E string, slight more than the string spacing.
The only downside of bass Ramp is the fact that you’d want them on every bass you have.
Unfortunately this didn’t work for various reasons- something went wrong every time. Either I rushed a coat or the paint reacted with the heat and humidity etc etc, I had to strip it back to wood twice. My decision to try another paint was forced when the company making the paint i was using went out of business and stopped production.
I found another metallic green I like and this company also has a clear lacquer which must be compatible right.
First coat goes on fine as does the clear coat.
A few days later (being patient) on goes another coat but this time the weather was against me. Currently the temperature is pushing towards 30C by mid morning (9am).
I had done the initial coats in the late afternoon when it is cool and shady, without thinking I did the next clearcoat in the sun when it was hot. This coat reacted with the previous one and caused it to shrink and crackle.
Bugger, I thinks, not again!
But then the artist in me took over.
I noticed that the patterns were very regular and look like lizard/dinosaur scales.
I also noticed that it was controllable.
Soooo, what I have done is make the pattern on the horns and body, leaving the middle part clear, it does have a texture which I like.
I also did the headstock so it would match.
When this was dry and after a few more days I put another coat of clear gloss on, this time without a reaction.
I put a satin on the back of the body and neck.
Overall I rather like it, turned a mistake into a feature (that’s punk right?)
Now it is all wired up and has flats.
I messed around with the wiring and got rid of the buzz that was present last night.
all up I am very happy with it and will take it to this weekend’s jam.
That 's actually really really REALLY great - I need a 3d printer
Do you think it would be possible to create something like that, where you can modify the position (up/down), so you can experiment with the correct height?
PS I use something like this for bridge etc - maybe a good idea for your thumb rest too?
I spent the last few weeks going down a rabbit hole of luthier videos, instead of practicing. Now that I’ve restarted playing I’m getting drawn into jazz bassline lesson videos: not so bad if they weren’t a bit too hard for this practice-phobic 30 year noob.
the same here with blues videos, and songs and… Oh there is a new Tekken released, that’s nice, but if buy it I will only play for a few minutes between the bass practice session… or I buy Baldurs Gate instead, I definitely want it more than Tekken…
There are plenty of options for switching the gold for black. It depends on how much you want to spend. Check out Hipshot and Gotoh hardware for some of the higher end stuff.
not sure if it’s a “project bass” as I’m just doing a big cleaning and setup on my beloved 70’s japanese “lawsuit” Grabber (exact copy of a Gibson Grabber). This bass used to belong to a professionnal studio, and I’m quite sure that it has never been opened, so I have to remove 50 years of dried sweat and dust. But the bass is in pretty good shape actually. I wanted to show you the particular routing under the big pickguard, to make the pickup slide :
I paid 300€ for mine but it was a true bargain, I guess the normal price would be a bit higher, but still way cheaper than an original Gibson. The problem is that those japanese copies are quite rare : you can find a lot of 70’s/80’s japanese Les Paul, SG, Stratocaster copies … but there are way less choices when you’re searching for something a bit more original.
Latest news about the Grabber. The pickguard was not shielded at all so I added an aluminum foil. The pickup is a single coil, so a little bit of shielding can’t hurt.
Also after a bridge and truss-rod setup, it appears that the neck has not enough angle to allow a low action. The bass is totally playeable but I can’t archeive a “perfect” setup (at least to my tastes) because the bridge touches the body and I would need to lower the string a little bit more. So I’ll add a little brass shim plate to tilt the neck a little bit and hopefully get a better action. Here are some shim plates, in various thicknesses.
I really like this bass. Not the easiest to play because of the weight, the 7.25" radius and the very small fretwires, but it sounds absolutly lovely. Very similar to a Rickenbacker actually.
My first bass project! My 7 week old squire contemporary jazz pre amp died. So after asking for advice, I upgraded to a Aguilar OBP-3. Also added a cheap tortoise pick guard after taking the angle grinder to it.
Fun little afternoon project.