*=It counts for both the short scale and long scale version.
Pro’s:
Short Scale, easy to start off with
Wood is actually better than I thought for that price
Minimum setup required (just as with more basses out of the box)
Easily customizable** (since it’s based on a fender/squier model)
It’s a P-bass, which is explained by @JoshFossgreen how versatile it is for a one-trick pony.
Cons:
Frets are cutting, setup also requires a good filing.
Pickups (and maybe other electronics) do need an upgrade (which is fair for that price)
Could use better tuners, but it can be worse
This bass (the short scale one) was my first bass for the first 6 months of seriously playing bass. Before I screwed around with other b-brands, such as Fazley, Jack & Danny and Fame. Harley Benton is simply the best.
Seriously. For a first bass or a side-bass: Get this one
**= for all non-knowing people: The following parts of the bass can be easily customized to taste for a fair price (minding you already got the wood cheap)
Tuners (from cheap to high-end)
Pickups ($100 - $150)
Frets
Nut (around $20)
Pot meter (I used Fender TBX Tone Control on my main bass. $20 to $30 for a good upgrade)
Bonus: Coated strings ($50 dollars for at least 1 year of fun)
Honestly? Why on earth would you spend money on a cheap bass, then spend more money on it (you quote about $200) to make it more playable? I do get the cheap bass for starting out though.
My route in was to buy a second hand bass, get going, then upgrade (again, second hand). Oh, and sell the original one for what I bought it for. I have quite a number of basses now, all quality instruments, and all purchased second hand. Every one of them, I could sell for what I bought them for, or more.
Yeah. The flaw in this plan is that after you buy a low end cheap instrument and dump a bunch of money in to it, you have… a low end cheap instrument. No one is going to buy it for more than they would an unmodded one, unless they are going to chuck it after removing the upgrade parts. You will always make more on resale parting these out than selling as an upgrade.
So, doing this implies you’re building one for keeps. If that’s the case, why not sell the cheap beginner bass to someone else and spend the extra on a better baseline instrument?
Modding is fun to some extent but it makes more sense to step up to a better baseline than the absolute bottom.
On the other hand, with a good foundation - say like a MIJ Fender or more or less any midrange Yamaha or Sire - it takes little or no improvement to make them as good as higher end instruments. So diminishing returns sets in fast and upgrades make a little more sense later; of course, those instruments usually have very little that needs upgrading these days because midrange workhorse instruments have gotten so good.
The most inexpensive bass I have is a Yamaha TRBX 174, I think it was a little over 250.00, I adjusted the neck, set the action put a set of Black Beauties on it and it sounds great. I just played and ordered a Rogue frettless at GC, 109.00 the action is a mile high and it was dull as it could be and I got some half rounds I’m going to put on it, but I liked it and hopefully I can make those changes and it will help. That’s all I’m going to do to them, not changing electronics, Pickups, it will be what it is with the very minor and cheap setup and strings. I also love searching for 2nd hand nice basses, found the Red Yamaha 415 for 300, strung it and I love it. I also have some that (for my liking) don’t need anything straight out of the box. Every one of mine has a different sound, plays different and I like em, BUT I’m not going to pour 300.00 or more in a 200-300 dollar bass.
I gig a Harley Benton kit bass that my wife built for me and wrapped in Leopard Print!
Having worked out that it was the tone pot shorting out on the shielding, the only thing I’m tempted to do is change the pickups to those Geezer Butler ones. Everything else, well it’s not the best quality, but it’s fine!
All told the $ is under 200.
129 debut precision
24 pickguard and screws
40 EB Group 3 flats
Pots and jack were on hand
27$ Fender himass to counter neck dive.
WEIGHT 8# 4oz!
And cheap does not mean bad.
I think most Harley Bentons are made in the same factories as big brands.
Also, China learned a thing or two about making products in recent years. Look at their phones or their cars … producing a bass is no rocket science in comparison.
I had the opportunity to buy a 500€ Sire, a 1000€ Ibanez or a 1500€ Fendner … and I choose a 230€ Harley Benton, just saying!
I actually wanted the Fender Duff McKagan signature bass (from Guns n Roses). That bass is around $/€1600. My Squier Classic Vibe 70’s P bass has almost everything the duff bass has, but costs at least a few hundred bucks less just by modding my bass and not buying a brand. Also, it’s fun making your own FrankenSquier
For example:
The Bass: between €400 and €500 depending on inflation
TBX tone control (the so called Duff tone control) - €20
Seymour Duncan P-pickup - €150
Fender Hi Mass Bridge - €30
Setup costs (since I’m lazy) - €80*
Including copper shielding and fixing rough edges
*= had multiple visits, could be just €40 if I did it all in one go
Only thing I want to to is adding the following:
Jazz pickup at the bridge - €150
Hipshot D Tuner - €130
Setup costs - €150
Including woodwork to fit the jazz-pickup
I should consider my bass the ‘Squier Duff McKagan Signature Bass‘
Pretty much it’s just the aesthetic and tactility that’s the 5-10 percent of the difference between $200 and $2000 bass. It has virtually nothing to do with sound quality and ability to record high quality bass tracks or even live.
I’m already more than busy learning IT. The well earned salary allows me to pay a guitar technician so I actually have time to spend practicing and playing with my band.
My Frankensquier, including my own sanded satin neck (on the back), high quality coated strings, a bridge better than a lot of high-end fender basses (more sustain) and that sweeeeet Fender TBX Tone Control (basically free passive mid/bass boost for that extra rock and punk feel).
@Whying_Dutchman If you ever start a new mod project, get one of these more expensive Squiers. Totally worth the extra euro’s or dollars!
Yeah I do my own setup but from time to time I’d have the pro do the setup too. Usually every 500 hours, which to me can be a couple of years on each bass.
Experience pros can sniff out the bit of comfort and playability. Most people think low actions is end all be all, but it’s not even close to the truth. Most time it’s the optimal setting for your playing style. The more you play and know what you want the better a tech can deliver to you what you need.
