Fair enough, I guess that’s just something I am never going to get a feel for until I’m good enough to try out a song I know well on both types.
And I am a sucker for looks first, then functionality.
Funny, I looked the Warrick Streamers up and now I can’t unsee the blue viagra bass from the ugly duckling thread.
I guess it’s gonna be saving up for a dingwall for the purple one after all.
mmm… no… It would be forever ‘wrong’ - chalk that one up to the personal idiosyncrasies of a neurodivergent brain.
I think I worked out what bothers me… I don’t like the bridge end to be too symmetrical for some reason. The TRBX is subtle but the beveling really changes the flow of the shape.
Looking at all the ones I immediately dismiss as looking meh, vs the ones I immediately go ‘ooh’ on and that’s the common difference.
Oh don’t get me wrong, I adore my TRBX, but I eventually want a 5 string as well, and I really want to try out the slanted frets.
I could go for a 5 string TRBX of course, their translucent black one is also drop dead gorgeous but if I’m gonna buy another bass I might as well make it something uniquely different.
Let’s get back to to topic that would offends everyone, choice of basses
Best fanned frets are the subtle ones like *Strindberg but it doesn’t look as cool, I know it’s a strange reference on a *strandberg, you want it to be stretched out for the maximum visual effect. Dingwall and Ibanez really offer awesome models I especially love the Super P.
I’d prefer Dingwall over Spector and the Ibanez especially EHB series are great values. I have the 1506
There are a few drawbacks with the multi scale bass and they Dont make on in 4 string short scale so I have one custom made without the annoying issues.
If you get into a music shop and sit down with them, the differences in sound become pretty apparent, quickly. Not that you can’t play post punk / goth on humbucker’s, jazz, or PJ set up, but P basses have historically been the thing for that genre. Also, I love the reverse P’s on my Yammie.
Hahaha! Yeah, since yesterday I feel that I have overstayed my welcome in the US
(I know how Jeremy Clarkson must feel!)
As the first European in Australia were actually Dutch and most early European settlers were convicts, the Australian mindset might be closer to mine
Also, I love everything Aboriginal…
The video was very enlightning - but note to myself: “Don’t go into Australian bars!”
Though my girlfriend just said, that there is an Australian bar just around the corner, so I could practice here, within then safety of European soil.
She would join, as she likes a stiff drink or two - she can drink any Russian under the table and is happy to do the same to the Australians
@Morkai - maybe Schecters Johnny Christ bass is something for you? It’s all black and should sound wonderful. It has some gold on it - which is not everyones piece of cake! @BozzerWolf has one and is so happy with it that he spends day&night playing it, instead of visiting the BassBuzz forum ^^
NEVER! I really really really like the knobs and they fit perfectly to the style I was looking for.
I tried with those sleeves (albeit the wrong size, so I had to clip them a little), with copper tape and with a piece of aluminium in the gap.
Nothing worked.
The knobs expect 6.1mm shafts, the Dimarzio split shaft pot is about 5.8mm.
So I either find new solid shaft pots or find a solution for my current DiMarzio pots. Currently I’m thinking of soldering the gap of the shaft and making sure I have the exact diameter with copper tape.
(They look strange, due to perspective - but it’s all straight, not wobbly)
There is no reason that the DiMarzios should not fit when modded, but I am really flabbergasted that all efforts until now failed, as it seems such a minor thing…
Yeah, it’s more effort than almost anything else I have done on that bass.
But I can’t send the knobs back anymore, and hate to throw away stuff.
I will give up when everything else fails. But not before…
Mind over matter!
Thomann had some confusing data about the sleeves on their website. Now I have them and make them work. But: it’s very thin and soft metal, so I see no difference between those sleeves and making the copper tape fit exactly to spec.
My guess is that the “teeth” in the shaft might be an issue, as the “pointy” screw in the knob penetrates the sleeve/tape.
I guess if you insist on making this work one thing to try might be gluing inch pot sleeves inside metric pot sleeves. No idea how that would work out.
As you can see on the pic above, the DiMarzios are rounded at the top… Combined with the fact that they are shorter, I think the screw of the knob is too high and will likely screw into the curvature of the DiMarzio knob, making it wobbly.
I will try once more, using the sleeves and filling the gap with tin, as well as filling about 1mm on top of the pot shaft to remove the curvature.
Yes, I feel your rolling eyes, but I cannot let the pot win this battle!
Has this any advantage over just using tin? Tin I have here at home, epoxy I need to get.
I see (maybe) one advantage in epoxy: it might be harder than tin??!
PS I do have some kind of moldable glue here that I have used to close the holes on the pickguard. It’s not epoxy, but some super strong/hard and temperature resistant material.
No, just make it fluid by heating it and fill the sleeve (aka copper tape) and the gap in the split shaft, so it gets 2 mm higher and solid otherwise.
The result should exactly the same as the EMG solid shaft pot.
(While writing this I have to giggle myself about all the effort I put into all of this ^^)
