@terb thats some great playing man. Good tone too.
Lighter E while more lively to play than 105 you can get pretty tone with the right touch. I love my 90 and 95 as they are quite expressive. Albeit slower transient.
@terb thats some great playing man. Good tone too.
Lighter E while more lively to play than 105 you can get pretty tone with the right touch. I love my 90 and 95 as they are quite expressive. Albeit slower transient.
Yeah his cover of that actually made me check out the band at the time.
After I have optimized everything on the DP126 Pink’s Hot, I focussed on the DAW and found another utter stupidity from my side: the total level looked good, but the input gain of the bass was way too high and therefore slightly distorted for some songs.
When I brought the level of the bass down and balanced the background song level up to a volume that matches the mix, all Drop D songs have a clear and defined bass line now, without the need for being edgy - like the EMG GZR.
I learn every day!
Yes this is exactly what I meant above about the DiMarzio’s being hotter/stronger than the EMG’s.
Shoot for no higher than -8 to -4dB on the input meter when recording.
… unless you know exactly what you do
Just for fun I will think of a procedure to measure the “hotness” of both PUs (DP126 vs EMG GZR) in a reasonably objective way today, so I know the difference.
Or do you have a proposal for an approach?
Do I understand correctly that the (slight) distortion could lead to the effects I described before, namly not being very dominant, especially in the lower frequencies (like Drop D)? At least, this would be my conclusion (together with non-optimal distance between PU and string that I had before).
Hahaha! Thanks - very helpful, as always
I was more thinking about a procedure using MOscilloscope and the like (to get dB values), and a way to rule out differences in plucking the strings…
I think, overall output can be measured best that way!?
Or you could just play your bass and work on songs / technique / timing
Yeah, but does this add anything to answering my question, @Barney?
I have a lot of time currently, so I can do many things ^^
Hey! @Whying_Dutchman
Now that’s nice. $300 here
Hahaha - no! No new basses for me! EVER!
But: a potential client asked me to do an analysis recently, and I told him that it would take one day and he needs to pay me with a Reverend Dub King in Avocado.
Still waiting for the response
I just stumbled over a spare ABM 6240 adjustable brass nut that I had hidden somewhere., so I would not do anything stupid with it.
This one: ABM 6240 Nut
I have put the same model on my now (almost) forgotten Blackstar travel bass and quite liked it, both in terms of flexibility and tone.
And Ronin looks at me dejected and whispers: “moooooood meeeeeeeeee!”
Hmmm … so the ABM is 40mm (width) * 5mm (depth) * 5.5mm (height) and the factory nut is 38mm (width) * 3.6mm (depth) * 5.4mm (height).
I could file the 40mm to 38mm and increase the nut gap on the neck from 3.6mm to 5mm, no problem.
Also it looks like the string positions are exactly the same on both nuts.
Should I do it? Or would that be … nuts??!
I would suggest that you simply play them instead.
Reading this thread comes across like someone who really loathes the instruments he owns and is constantly fighting to make them good.
In the words of the great FZ: “Shut up and play yer guitar!”
@Whying_Dutchman : sorry haven’t really followed along, but the title and the number of posts has always made me want to add this… So, here it is:
I just want to make my bass great, not even again
If my bass were a country I could become president!
I find it absolutely astonishing too how this thread grows, only by complaining how it grows!
But there’s almost nothing I can or want to change anymore on that bass, except nut, threaded inserts for the neck screws and maybe strings…
All good things must end … one day ^^
Absolutely perfect response, @joergkutter.
You’re back
I make the motion that today is ideal.