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The Bass Butler can go straight to hell for its power supply :rofl:

(it doesn’t play nice with pedalboard power supplies so you need to use its power supply as well)

(I thought it was positive 15V, it’s positive 18V and that’s just a polarity plug away. Or was it the current requirements… :thinking: )

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Oh yeah I remembered something like that. Seriously what are they thinking :laughing:

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Carvin cab is still acting up. I guess this weekend I’ll have to open it up and have a look at the wiring to the speakers, and see if I can get some contact/electronics cleaner into the L-pad. I guess I can still just make my money back selling the drivers and just replace the guts of the cabinet and have something decently light, reliable, and sounding good.

I’ll have to think about it. Maybe life is telling me not to jump into things so quickly. If I return it with problems and they discount it, then I’ll probably definitely jump on it if it’s worthwhile to deal with its problems :eyes:

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That’s a pretty basic passive crossover circuit you have there.
Even rebuilding it completely from scratch wouldn’t cost a whole lot.

In passive circuits, resistors are as durable as cockroaches and inductors aren’t far behind unless they’ve received physical damage (which is possible given you’ve had mice in there).

I’d start by replacing that input socket.
After that I’d try changing the capacitors as they’re prone to age related failure.

If you’re still having problems at that stage I’d pull the inductor and resistors to measure their values if you have an appropriate multimeter.

If you can’t solder, any half decent electronics shop should be able to rebuild that circuit cheaply.

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I can do all that, but if I have to do it I’m getting some money back is what I’m saying. It’s hard to know what part of the circuit to look at since it “mostly” works, but crackles slightly (but not all the time). Which is still making me think the jack is meh, or maaaaybe the L-Pad as they are the only two mechanical points of failure, then 30yo solder joints. So far all the wiring that I have seen looks good. Given the scant amount of actual wiring (as opposed to say, a car) I’m thinking any rodent damage would have been to the acoustic dampening material. They could have gotten at the wires, too.

Right now it’s a balancing act of how much mental energy I have vs what I am willing to, or even can, spend on a project. Sometimes I’m manic and I can hurl vast personal resources at something, some days I am low-key energy and can’t be bothered.

Today I spent a lot getting some things done for my car, so that colors my perspective and outlook for today.

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Mouse urine is corrosive to metal so that could potentially damage the likes of jacks, inductors and pots.

But yeah, it would want to be discounted to allow for time and materials for the repairs.

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The household cats seem to smell more inside it than I do. I sort of expected to be greeted with terrible odor when I pulled the back plate that the crossover circuit is attached to off :rofl:

They all like to sniff intently at the port opening on the bottom, last night one even sorta reached her paws at it and rolled onto her back while doing it :joy:

I should first try swapping the two jacks and see if that fixes it. My soldering iron heats in seconds so that would be a pretty fast job.

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The Genz Benz Focus LT FCS-410t

Somehow its electronics are sketchier than the Carvin cab lol…

The Speakon I can fix easily by the looks of it. Wtf is missing and why are the tweeter components connect to air? :joy: Methinks someone disconnected the tweeter… :thinking:

I’ve DMed the guy that actually designed these cabs, though. They were inexpensive and light for their time, like $600 in 2012 and listed at 64lbs with ceramic speakers. Some owners claimed 60lbs even :open_mouth: The decisions behind driver design were basically get a mix of old-school ceramic and new/modern clean. I really like how this cab sounds though. I can sort the electronics easily enough, and might even hot glue the components back down :tipping_hand_woman:t2:

I can also literally put it in my freaking car without putting down the rear seats :joy:

Edit Apparently I can buy a new crossover for $50 plus shipping. Oof. Or just run it the way it is w/ out the tweeter. I did buy it liking the sound.

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For funsies I hooked up the DG 1x12 and the GB 4x10 and it’s like, the f’ing Smol Stack of Doom :tm: :rofl:

Edit I’m starting to wonder why I am so f’ing cursed with 4x10s with shoddy crossovers/electronics? :thinking: this is two in a row…

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Got the new crossover in today:

it’s basically plug and play, and I can see that I was indeed correct about where the speakon red should be wired to, and there’s that huge resistor @terb

I was incorrect in knowing about that red wire to the tweeter switch, but it makes sense, and seeing how it’s wired gives me a little more understanding in my head on how crossovers work, at least.

Going to use this to repair the old crossover as a spare because why not.

The tweeter sounds really good actually, it’s not at all harsh like the one in the Carvin RL410t. I wasn’t overly fond of maximum firepower on my C-5, -6db there or maybe even off, but for the MM it was great.

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Very sweet find, glad you were able to get it sorted out.

I am done for the night / morning, my knee is killing me, I gotta go lay down.

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Not mine, but I had to share this beast :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

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I used the search function, and this was one of the few comments on a Phil Jones C2 cab. Nice little stack there :smile:
And my question almost fit in the thread…
So, I’m considering buying a small cab, primarily for travel/holidays/family meetings. I would pair it with a Markbass Nano head that I already own. A PJ double four would be even more compact and lightweight, but this option is cheaper and provides more power if I ever need it… any considerations on the topic? Do you still use/like/recommend the c2 cab? :yellow_heart:

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My regular practice amp is a Markbass CMD Jeff Berlin “Players School of Music” Combo Amp. It’s been great and sounds awesome even at super low volume. I’m very happy with it.

I also picked up a Hotone Thunder Bass Mini 5W Amplifier Head. Great for headphone practice and travel, but I hardly use it since I don’t travel much anymore nor practice with headphones.

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The C2 is a fantastic cab. It’s lightweight, easy to carry and it has 200 watt at 8ohms. So you can use this cab for band practice and small venues gigs too. It holds up against the big boys.

I also owned a Cub BG-100 which was fantastic for travel (same size as the C2). The big plus was that it is a combo amp. If I had to compare I would say the C2 with a decent head sounds a lot better. I guess it will be a similar result against the double four.

The Cub BG-120 is an interesting alternative because it has more watt and can also function as a head. I feel they need to refresh the double four series at this point because they improve so much stuff over the years.

Personally I always go for comfort and prefer a tiny combo amp for travel. In any case the C2 is a kickass cab for the size.

Hope this helps!

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It definitely helps! Thanks a lot

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Hey @mac I found you an amp

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I WANT @howard !!!

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Looks like they go for about $2-3k USD used. Might take a minute to find one too.

Found one in Italy, no idea how reputable this place is:

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How much does a good kidney fetch nowadays? :joy:

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