I’m sorry for your pain, but honestly, that is the craziest way I’ve ever heard of equipment getting destroyed. I’ll second the vote for “the Mac award”! 
At least you got a shiny new amp out of it! Gotta say from an aesthetics standpoint, the NUX looks badass. 
Quite the story Mac…Do you think that maybe your horse didn’t like the music you play??
Maybe this forum could use a thread called “The ‘MAC’ Award” so that anyone who experiences crazy accidental gear destruction can share their mishaps
I guarantee you that after reading @Mac’s story about his horse and his amp, I will never play my bass or guitars around any barn animals…
I second this motion.
EDIT: Done.
And 45 days later the battery is dead again.
At this point I reckon the switch in the input jack isn’t functioning and the circuit is remaining on even with the cable removed. 
I don’t think there’s an actual switch in the output jack… As far as I know, the active electronics are switched on when the circuit is completed by inserting the plug.
I had this issue and it was an improperly wired jack.
it can be either a blade switch inside the plug :
or a simple stereo jack where the middle and ring contacts activate the circuit by connecting the ground when a mono jack plug is inserted :
both exist but the most common is probably the stereo jack, without an actual switch.
@terb Thanks for the explanation! @HowlinDawg maybe the manual has more info on this? If it’s a blade/micro switch in the output jack, it might be stuck in the “on” position. If that’s the case, spraying it with a little contact spray (or something like that) might fix it.
Thanks for the responses gents.
I pulled the PCB and checked the power supply.
The circuit has the expected 9v with the cable inserted but still gets 3v with the cable removed where I would have expected 0v, so I’ve definitely got a short somewhere.
There’s nothing obviously wrong with the wiring insulation so I’ll try cleaning the jack in case there’s some contamination causing a short internally. (it appears to be the second type of jack).
And it was a new bass, circa 3 months old at this stage.
I’ll post an update when I identify the culprit. 
FWIW Warwick has fantastic customer service.
For those of you following along (which, BTW, you really shouldn’t be, haha)…
In my luthier venting post you may recall I attempted to have a local luthier make me a mirror pickguard for my SIMs/Ray4 testbed bass, which, he chipped really badly and made a basic black one as a backup. He promised to remake the mirror one, but I am not holding my breath for that to ever happen, so I went with WD/pickguards.com. I think it looks way better than the basic black.
You may notice a small blemish/chip near the rear toggle hole, that hole is the same place my local luthier messed up too. I emailed WD and am expecting a response and replacement, new should be new.
Nice!
I did an upgrade today, on my B206. Put on a set of Stringjoy strings, 25/35/45/55/75/95. So tuned E-E like a Bass VI. First impressions, they sound good and feel good. Have a couple sets on order and will be putting them on a 4 and 5 string Stream next week.
The 206 sounds really good, need to get adjusted to the new tuning though. Will report back
I was noodling on my 206 today, really liking the tone of it. A lot.
Quite different than my Lakland 5er, both great just different. But really an outstanding value in a 6 string.
Would love to hear a recording with the lighter strings.
With my Xmas gift cards I ordered a monitor and keyboard for my laptop that the Scarlett connects to so I should have that next week. Then I can get more serious when I don’t have to use the tiny screen. I should be able to get something out so I can share my mediocre playing abilities on the 6
I like the tone on the 206 a lot, which is why I got the 204. Now, with the new strings, which base do I put the 4 string set on? Stream 204? B204? Hard choice
I was playing Under Pressure on the 206 and really liked the tone with the new strings.
Today’s upgrade was a Hipshot Xtender drop D tuner for my new Fender Aerodyne Jazz bass. The Xtenders for Japanese Fenders had been hard to find in stock as of late, but I finally got hold of one.
Installation was a snap, with all the mounting holes lining up perfectly (unlike the ones I put on my Squier PJ and Ray 4).
The only issue is that the Aerodyne has “smoked chrome” hardware and of course the Xtender is only available in chrome, nickel, black and gold. I went with chrome rather than black, as the black is a matte finish and everything about the Aerodyne is glossy.
The difference is barely noticeable from the front.
Now I have drop D tuning with a flick of a finger. I have these on all of my basses, which is kind of funny since I only do a few songs that use drop D.
$115 for one tuner is a hard pill for me to swallow, though I’ve been curious about them for a long time. It does seem handy.
Their site doesn’t answer my curiosity about 34" vs 35" scale lengths
I had to read the instructions for their Double Stop product to figure out how it worked at all. The answer is scale length should not matter.
$230-$320 to give a 5-string bass Drop A/D or even the insanity of F#/B (in theory… they only give instructions for tuning E to D, C, as low as B with the Double Stop but people have used the xtender to drop a 5 to A)
Anyway, I’m rambling. Happy NGD!
Edit Okay, I saw someone flip the lever and drop to D in the middle of a groove and it was smooth AF… now I want one.
I don’t know why Hipshot has such high prices on their website. Street price is much less. I got mine from Guitar Audio for $70 w/free shipping.
Indeed it does not. I have one on my Gretsch Junior Jet (30" scale).
And that’s why I have them on all of my basses. 
