Interesting idea but I think the execution needs some work. If the sliders were two sided, you could use one instead of two between pedals.
Like it is, if you’re using space saving patch cables (like EBS patch cables) you end up losing all the space you would have saved.
I use velcro but I went the route of covering the bottom in gaffer tape before putting the velcro on. Like he does in this video…
I actually use a Temple. I just use velcro instead of their pricey mounts. I got the Temple because the dimensions were what I was looking for.
I’ve been informed that it can still leave residue after long enough. I can neither confirm nor deny the veracity of this claim. I shared that video on another site a while back and was told.
I use full strips and completely cover the pedal board.
On the pedals, I use two 1/4" strips, one on top and one on bottom.
I wrap them up the sides. about 1/4 to 1/2".
Not only do they come off super easily, they give you a little pull tab, so you don’t have to pull on the pedal to take it off the board, you just pull on the “pull tabs” that are wrapped on the side. They don’t really stick to the side if you don’t go too far up, and the tab is really handy.
When selling a pedal, the strips come off with one, easy pull, and hardly ever leave any residue, and if they do, its nothing that a Clorox wet wipe won’t take care of.
Just another approach to the many other good suggestions and methods out there you can use.
When you have the full bottom of the pedal covered in velcro, and the full rail of the pedal board covered in velcro, it can take force you don’t always necessarily want to exert on all the pedals out there. Sure, many are built like a tank, but some are a little more delicate, and if you can hold them down with less gripping force then what you get, and don’t need with full velcro bottoms, its a win / win in my book.
I made this mistake with my B7K which is also one of the bigger pedals out there. It takes leverage to get that thing moving 
Yep, I got a Deluxe Big Muff and a MarkBass Compressore, both used, that had velcro across the whole bottoms. The Deluxe Big Muff is considered a double pedal because the MXR standard pedals are the single pedal from which pedals are measured against.
The Compressore by MarkBass is bigger in all 3 dimensions then the Big Muff and DAMN was it a bitch to get off.
Fortunately the pedal itself is built like a military tank, but it is a Tube compressor, and there is a tube inside. It is not super delicate, but it is something to consider when sticking it down to a pedal board.
Fortunately, the velcro came off pretty easily, and I used a single 1/4" strip across the middle. The pedal has some weight on its own, so its not going anywhere even if it had like 4 3/8" circles of velcro at each corner.
Yeah you just want little strips or squares on the pedals for sure.
Not sure I’m liking the solution but it’s in one place. Compressor and Tone Hammer acquired from @T_dub. ODB3 from my buddy Gil. M5 came from Adam. Fuzz wah and board were Craigslist finds. Riser from Chad. Music buddies rule! Power is a Truetone CS6. It’s not all Velcro’d down but everything is patched and powered. If I commit to this format I’ll do some significant cable management. Any thoughts? Like? Dislike? Just get a bigger board?
I haven’t seen those “bone” pedalboards before. Looks stable and perfectly sized for that pedal loadout.
I had seen the Bone boards but always went with a Pedaltrain for my other builds. For 40 bucks with the bag I couldn’t got wrong.
Having to top mount the power supply is the reason for the riser. At least with everything I have on there. I could certainly simplify it further since there are 3 drives available and the compressor but I want/need/am emotionally committed to the variables.
The m5 does not play well with a daisy chain so a power supply that can manage 500ma as well as 18v for the Tone Hammer is absolutely necessary. I’ll give it a few gigs to see if the ergonomics are manageable without being too cumbersome.
It looks like the Tone Hammer is at the end of the chain. I wanted mine at the beginning but it didn’t play well with my Bass Tube Screamer and i ended up putting it at the end.
Did you have the same experience with the TH messing with the sound of your drives.
I have exactly zero experience with it but just knew I wanted the preamp at the end. Since I can shape the final tone more consistently that way just pushing it from behind with more drive. And it maintains unity that way.
I always put preamp anything at the end; it’s like plugging into the input of an amp, after-all. My B7K lives at the end of my little board for that reason. If it had an effects loop then reverb and delay would go in the loop, of course. But it is what it is, I suppose.
+1. That’s where you want any amp/cab sim (or amp/cabsim-adjacent stuff) to be. With the possible exception of reverb; putting reverb last can make a lot of sense too.
But since the preamp is where your DI out will usually be, also for practical reasons - it’s last.
I used to run two preamps on my board and had a DI out sooner in the chain (right before all the dirt) if I wanted it as well.
This was my thinking, since I have a DI out on my amp, I wanted to put it earlier in the chain to have an un-effected signal also.
I’m enjoying my Stomp. I have a few links to free bass presets to get you started if you’re interested just send me a message.
On modulargrid.net I also had some pedalboards with HX Stomp and Stomp XLs on them
I am considering these:
MXR 280 Vintage Bass Octave Mini pedal
MXR M87 Bass Compressor pedal
aaaand the Tech 21 Geddy Lee Signature SansAmp rack mountable unit.
I have a Radial J48 DI. Is it just me or does the Radial J48 seem a bit complicated / confusing with all the buttons and switches? Anyone else here using a Radial J48?
This is a great pedal! The whole new mini serie is pretty good imo. The M87 has a lot of mixed reviews. Most ppl on this forum don’t like that one. You could also look at the M282 mini version instead.
Radial is solid. Never heard complaints about that one.
