Strap Locks

Warwick has Schaller locks, Yamaha has Grolsch washers…

Resurrecting this thread to ask about a non-drill (i.e. no new holes) quick release strap button easy on and off model. My two Fender basses both have thick straps I would only remove if putting them in in hard cases. (Does any trustworthy maker offer a 2x2 button package?)

Dunlop? Fender? Schaller? Ernie Ball? Knockoffs? Any suggestions? (I have a modest Amazon promo code I need to use before this year ends.):christmas_tree:

For straps with thicker ends I highly recommend Schaller over anything else.
These only require turning down of a disc on the threads vs. trying to get a clip to engage when thick strap material is in the way.

Drilling - you use the holes already there, however - many times the current screws are smaller than the strap lock screws and will require a bit of widening with the next widest drill bit. This varies bass by bass, not necessarily mfg by mfg.
Do not try to force the largest screws in the smaller holes, wood and finishes may (or will - yikes) split.

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I find the Schaller S Locks (which Fender uses branded with their name) work really well with my straps on 3 of my Fenders. I have both the Fender and Schallers and they work with one another.

I replaced the original strap buttons easily but don’t force or over tighten or you will chip or crack the finish. My straps are the Comfort Strapp and a thick leather Levy’s. The Levy’s was a bit of a squeeze but it is on and secure.

They are both available on Amazon so look at which is cheaper and faster to get. Just looked and the Schallers are on sale and I prefer them because they have the screw lock on them. You can also buy the strap buttons alone without the locks if you have multiple basses and just one or 2 favorite straps.

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Thanks, @John_E and @SubsonicRob. Was reading reviews of both Fender & Schaller this afternoon and it seems F=S in this equation. Was wondering if F might be better as my basses are both older F’s, in regards to screws and fit, but I get the impression that the whole design is identical between them?

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I don’t know anything about Fender strap locks, most people don’t recommend them like Schaller’s are, and quality of construction is a big deal here. There are other Schaller knockoffs that folks have found to be faulty, I would stick with what more people tend to recommend.

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The Fender’s use to be made by Schaller. The old Fender one’s actually had Schaller on them. Back then they both used a hex nut. Schaller changed up their design to using a locking wheel nut (has the screw in them to stop the nut from coming loose).

I did read that the Fender locking strap locks are not labelled Germany anymore so it could be they commissioned another company to manufacture them. As far as I know they are still interchangeable but as @John_E said stick with the original name brand especially if the price is similar. I don’t think there will be any major difference in the screws that should make installing the Schallers difficult. You can compare them the moment you take the Fender one’s out.

I also have Dunlop’s on my Warwicks. I cannot recommend them. They have popped out while playing and I have even lost the small ball bearing that keeps them in place. I would change them to Schallers but the Warwick’s strap locks are actually dug into the body not just screwed on.

If you want to avoid modifying the bass in anyway you can also just use the rubber washer trick. They are sold everywhere or you can get them off a bottle of Grolsch beer. Fender even branded them and you can find them on Amazon along with unbranded ones for cheap. I use them on one bass and never had a problem.

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When I get a new bass, I add strap locks, put in a new battery if it has one, and change strings if its used. Then I play it.

I use the Fender Infinity locks, never had a problem.

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I installed a set of Schallers on my Fender, and fit was great with no problems. I bought a set for my G&L L-2000, and the mounting screws were too big, and I didn’t want to enlarge the holes on the bass. Instead I just installed the Fender rubber washers like SubsonicRob suggested, and they really are an easy low tech solution to a simple problem. The amount of times I take my G&L out of the house doesn’t require that the strap be quick release, and they are not too difficult to take on and off. In all honesty, I don’t worry about the rubber washers ever failing, but I wouldn’t bet my life on the Schallers not loosening over time…

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I generally use the screws that I took out of the bass to put on the strap locks

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Won’t work with Schallers.

I highly recommend Schallers, I like them a lot more than the Dunlop style.

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Correct, the buttons and screws are one piece. They do come in three different sizes though. I have found Medium is usually the right size.
https://schaller.info/en/s-locks/237/buttons-for-s-locks-xl-m-and-s

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Yep, I always get the Mediums.

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Well, my second set of Schallers and my first problem…

One of the buttons will not allow the pin to engage.
Both pins work in the other button (on the horn) but niether will engage in the button on the tail of the bass.

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Just a thought.

Did you replace the original button with the Schaller button.
If you did it sounds like the Schaller button is somehow defective.

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of course…

Yes it would appear to be machined poorly.
I emailed them but fastest fix is to order another set, take out a button and return the set as defective I guess.

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Yeh I thought you had but you never know :slightly_smiling_face:

You’d think a company like Shaller would just drop a no charge replacement in the mail rather than go through the issue of having you order another set and then return the defective one for credit.
Poor reflection on their customer service IMHO considering their cost

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I only emailed them just now, they haven’t had a chance to respond yet.

I bought some cheap rubber strap locks, but they grip the strap button really well. I think I paid £1.99 for about 20.

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Remember that the rubber strap lock washers/grommets work very well if the strap buttons are of the “Fluted” design . . . if not, it is possible that the washers can still slip off.

Don’t ask me how I know this . . . :roll_eyes:

Cheers
Joe

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