Have you tried a shorter intonation screw? The problem with these bridges is that there is only about 3/16" of travel in the threads for the intonation screw. I had that problem with my knock-off kickass bridge. So I just cut the screw by 1/4" and chased the threads with a die. However, if you go to your local fastener store (specialty nuts and bolts place, the Homeless Despot doesn’t carry machine screws that small) they’ll happily sell you a bunch in different lengths with the right diameter and thread pitch. Then you can swap them in and out depending on the intonation needs of a particular string set.
EDIT: The working assumption here is that your saddle isn’t butted up against the back of the bridge. If it is, you may have to shift the bridge back.
EDIT 2: Also, you may want to take a tap and chase the threads in the hole. Most bridges are machined prior to chroming/blackening/plating, and sometimes there is overflow that cakes in the threads, stopping the intonation screw from going in all the way. You’ll have to find out the exact diameter and thread pitch, but you’re likely aware of that.
This is really annoying when it happens. It’s happening on my new guitar - not enough out of intonation at max to make me do something about it, but enough out to annoy me. I have found that different strings can help, which makes absolutely no sense to me unless it is changing the neck geometry via tension or something.
yeah that’s very strange. with the Ibanez AGBV I have a similar problem, the bridge won’t intonate perfectly. I’m pretty sure it’s due to the strings (D’Addario flats) and I’m considering changing them but how to know if it will intonate right or not ? good strings are not cheap …
that said, on a Fender-like trem like the one you have on your Cort, you can cut the little spring to allow the saddle to move a little bit further. I aldready had to do that.
This +1, in fact, the spring itself isn’t actually necessary, because it’s string tension that holds the saddle in place. The spring’s mainly there for convenience as you’re shortening string length for intonation. Bob Carruthers from Elixir strings recommends giving the screwdriver a tap as you’re shorthening the string length just to make sure the saddle moves forward, because sometimes the springs don’t work.
Also, @John_E , you could try putting on a heavier gauge of strings (with a .110 E for example). By my reckoning that should work as well and require you to push the saddle neckwards a bit.
Could be it. My guess is that you could tighten a heavier string more and achieve the same frequency with higher tension. On the other hand, can the bass handle it? My first bass was an Ibby GSR200, and the previous owner had a .55 to .115 string set on it. It intoned just fine, but the neck had front bow from hell, even though the truss rod was cranked right down.
yeah but at least you have the easy fix of cutting the spring on the Ibanez with a TOM-like bridge I can’t do anything, except maybe if I disassemble completly the bridge to modify some parts but that’s a bit complicated still maybe what I sould do, even if a string change seems more obvious
I had thought the string matching to the bridge might be a part of it as well due to tension but I would rather leave the bridge than search for strings and be handcuffed into a set that works for a bad bridge placement.
So, this is what happens when you break the cardinal imperative “If it ain’t broke, don’t fookin’ fix it!” Also, as they say in Polish, “Better is the enemy of good”.
Last night, I tried to replace the pups in my Peavey JJ bass with Dragonfire split coil jazz pups. The neck went fine. The bridge pup? What a goatfuck! I ended up misaligning the pup cover and trashing the coil wires. The bass is as yet dysfunctional. I’m going to put in the old pup, and have to order another neck pup. FFS.
Education costs money, sadly.
I have had plenty of costly mistakes modding.
Overtightened preamp pot - $50, etc etc etc.
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